2torial #0980:
Learn2 Appreciate Cheese (continued)

Understand types of cheese

Cheeses may be categorized in a number of ways (according to the kind of milk, or the processes used, for example). The following categories emphasize texture and flavor:

Fresh cheeses (including ricotta, cottage, Neufchâtel, chèvre, and mascarpone) are not fermented or pressed. They are soft or curdy, mild in flavor, and do not keep long. Some double and triple creams, which are particularly rich and creamy, fall into this category, too.

Bloomy rind cheeses (including Brie and Camembert) have a high milk fat content and a white, downy texture on their rinds. They are not pressed or cooked and have a short coagulation time which makes for a soft, smooth cheese. A perfectly ripe bloomy rind cheese has a creamy texture, a delicate tangy flavor, and is just beginning to bulge or ooze from its soft center. Overripe bloomy cheeses are runny and smell of ammonia.

Blue cheeses (including Roquefort, Stilton, and Gorgonzola) may be made from different types of milk, but all owe their pungent tangy flavor to the presence of penicillium. Make sure the veins are blue and not a darkened gray or brown, which shows it's past its prime.

Washed rind cheeses (including Limburger, Munster, and Pont-l'Évêque) are sprayed or soaked with water or brine during ripening. The moist surface encourages bacterial growth and inhibits yeast, producing a mild-flavored but strong-smelling cheese, and creating a protective rind. When ripe, these cheeses cling to the knife but do not ooze. Stay away from slimy, hardened, or cracked rinds.

Swiss cheeses (including Emmentaler, Appenzeller, and Gruyère) are both pressed and cooked, and can be recognized by their holes, which are formed by gases produced during the ripening process. They have a mild, sweet, and nutty flavor. The fact that they melt and slice nicely makes them a favorite ingredient in a variety of dishes. Look for an even, creamy texture and avoid cracked or brown rinds.

Pasta filata cheeses (including mozzarella and provolone) originated in southern Italy, and are made from spun or pulled curds. This process yields a chewy, textured, often sharply-flavored cheese that can be kept for some time without spoilage. Note: In addition to being a favorite pizza topping, mozzarella comes in a fresh form made from buffalo or cow’s milk (mozzarella di bufala), a delicious, soft cheese that comes soaked in its own whey.

Uncooked pressed cheeses (including cheddar and pecorino) vary widely in ingredients, flavor, and process, but all are firm and flavorful. Dutch cheeses, such as Gouda, Edam, and Mimolette, are known for their buttery or nutty flavors and semisoft interiors.

Extra-hard cheeses (including Parmesan and Romano) are dry, almost brittle, and aged for several years. They frequently have a piquant flavor and are good for grating over food as a garnish. If you're purchasing a cheese for eating alone, choose a younger, less crumbly variety.