2torial #0879:
Learn2 Choose and Maintain a Lawn Mower

Win the turf war

If you're a lawn owner, warm weather means burgeoning buffalo grass or rye on a rampage. And the difference between a hay field and the green, green grass of home is--you guessed it--regular upkeep with a lawn mower. In return for helping you keep your grass trimmed and healthy, your machine needs understanding and respect.

If you're new to the world of lawns, or otherwise in the market for a mower, here's help in choosing and using a machine that will aid you in your turf war--and won't be a pain in the grass.

The best lawn mower is not always the newest or most expensive. It should be well-made and suit your budget and lawn size, but above all it must be well-maintained. A basic but meticulously cared-for walk-behind mower will thrash along merrily for years after a neglected lawn tractor has been reduced to a costly hunk of junk. So shop wisely, read your owner's manual, and take good care of your machine.

Understand types of mowers

With proper care, your new lawn mower can last more than a decade, so do your research before you buy. Start your odyssey by understanding what's available. Following are some basic distinctions among lawn mowers.

Power source. The majority of mowers on the market are gasoline-powered, with two- or four-cycle engines. However, electric-powered mowers are increasingly available. One of these may be a good choice if your lawn isn't too big and you'd like to reduce noise and air pollution. Old-fashioned, human-powered walk-behind mowers are totally nonpolluting--and will give you some real exercise when you mow.

Walk-behind vs. riding. Walk-behind mowers are either pushed by the user or are self-propelled. The difference between the two rests principally in price, speed, safety, and ease of maintenance (Walk-behind mowers tend to be cheaper, slower, safer, and less complex--but may not always be all of these).

Riding mowers are more expensive and powerful than push mowers, so they're overkill on a small lawn but a smart choice for folks with a lot of ground to cover. They may also fulfill other functions, including dethatching or hauling, depending on the model and accessories.

Blade type. Most newer mowers use rotary blades, which cut the grass by hitting it at a high speed. Rotary blades adjust more easily to different turf heights (especially the taller heights--above 2 inches or 5 centimeters--currently recommended by turf specialists), and they're easily sharpened at home. They're also more dangerous, though, since the blades move at high speeds and the mechanism can throw debris long distances.

The classic manual push mower has a reel-type blade, which cuts grass with a shearing action. Power models with this type of blade are also available, but tend to be expensive. Reel blades usually need to be sharpened professionally, their cutting height is not as readily adjustable, and they may produce an uneven cut if turf is tall (over 3 inches or 7.5 centimeters). However, these mowers use less power than a rotary blade machine and produce a better quality cut on short turf. They're also safer, since the blade moves slower and doesn't throw as much debris.

Consider your circumstances

Think about your own preferences (for power, safety, extra functions, and the like), keeping in mind what your lawn is like and how much you can afford to spend.

Your budget. New mowers can cost anywhere from $100 to more than $3,000 (U.S.). Start by deciding how much you want to spend--you'll find there are several mowers with different merits to fit any budget.

Your lawn. A lawn's size, features, and rate of growth should influence your decision. A small patch suggests a smaller, less complex, and less expensive mower, while a large greensward (say, more than half an acre or 1,852 square meters) may merit a powerful riding mower. A sloping lawn may call for a self-propelling mower rather than one you have to push, while an odd-shaped plot or one peppered with trees or other obstacles may benefit from a smaller, more maneuverable machine.

And if your fast-growing grass demands cutting more than once a week, an investment in a more powerful mower may well be worth it (if the lawn is new, talk to a turf expert at your local plant nursery to find out how rapid you can expect growth to be).

Take a few minutes to measure your lawn's area (multiply its width by its length) and consider its quirks. When you shop for a mower, the salesperson should be able to tell you how much ground each mower can cover in a given time. He or she should also be able to point you to several models that would work well in your circumstances.

Your preferences. Your own needs will ultimately make your decision a highly personal one. Given your budget and your lawn's size and features, consider how important the following are to you:

• Ease of use and maintenance: Are you happy tinkering with machines and checking gauges and dials, or do you want them to do their job with minimal fuss?

• Maneuverability, speed, and power: As the person who will be operating the mower, how much time and energy do you want to expend?

• Safety: Are you concerned about lawn mower accidents? You may want to choose a less powerful model, or one with more safety features.

• Size: How much space do you have to store the machine, its fuel, and accessories?

• Other functions: Do you want your mower to help return grass clippings to the lawn? Bag clippings for you? Dethatch your turf? Blow snow?

Armed with this information, you won't be easily seduced into buying more mower than you need.

Shop around

You can find dealers in the phone book, through word of mouth, or by contacting manufacturers directly and asking for a list of certified dealers in your area. Try to comparison shop with the following in mind:

Quality. Does the store carry recognized brands? Machines from established manufacturers are easier to research for reliability and, once you own them, are easier to find parts for. They also tend to offer more robust warranties.

Mowers with engines are sold with two manufacturer warranties: one for the engine and one for the mower itself. Warranty periods can extend from 90 days to 5 years. In general, you'll get what you pay for, so ask yourself if the upfront savings are worth it.

Customer service. Is your salesperson both knowledgeable and patient? Is he or she more interested in finding the right mower for your circumstances, or in making a large commission? The attitude and professionalism of a store's sales staff is a good indicator of the sort of service you'll get when you bring the mower in for maintenance or repairs.

What about a used mower? Some dealers sell reconditioned lawn mowers with their own warranty attached. These can be a fine choice, especially if you're mechanically minded and don't mind dealing with the maintenance and repairs that will arise. If you buy a mower from a private party, all bets are off, of course, unless the mower and its engine are still covered under their original warranties.

Keep a maintenance schedule

Your owner's manual should have a suggested maintenance schedule, including information about storing the mower for winter. If you don't have the owner's manual, some general guidelines follow. Note: Always turn off the engine and let it cool for at least 10 minutes before you perform any maintenance, including refueling. If you're checking the oil or cleaning under the deck, remove the spark plug. Unplug the mower if it's electric.

• Check the fuel and oil levels before each use.

• Make sure the tires are properly inflated (riding mowers).

• Use the proper fuel and oil (if you have a two-cycle gas engine, remember that the oil is mixed with the fuel--see the manual for the correct ratio).

• Clean clippings from the underside of the mower after each use.

• Sharpen the blades at the beginning of the season (follow the instructions in your manual or have it done professionally) and check them periodically throughout the season (flick their edges with the ball of your thumb to check sharpness).

• Replace the spark plug at the beginning of the season.

• Clean or change the air filter after every 25 hours of operation, or more often under dusty conditions.

• Lubricate the wheels and moving joints after every 25 hours of operation.

• Change the oil at least once a season (four-cycle engines).

• Periodically check the condition and tightness of belts and chain drives.

Winter storage. When the season is over, store your machine properly by doing the following:

• Drain the fuel tank or add a fuel protectant (use according to manufacturer's instructions).

• Remove the spark plug and lubricate the cylinder with oil, following the instructions in your owner's manual.

• Disconnect the spark plug wire.

• Clean all dirt and debris from the machine.

• Follow other storage procedures as recommended by your owner's manual.

• Store the mower and any leftover fuel in a clean, dry place away from appliances with pilot lights or other ignition sources.

Respect its power and care for its needs, and your lawn mower--whatever its features and price tag--will be your ally, not another enemy to overcome in the lawn wars.

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