2torial #0860:
Learn2 Appreciate Gourmet Mushrooms (continued)

Get acquainted with cultivated mushrooms

All cultivated mushrooms started out wild--some species just took to domestication better than others. Many of those listed below can still be bought in their wild forms, but the cultivated kind are often just as good, more available, and less expensive.

Portobellos. These members of genus Agaricus have a classic shape: round, saucer-like caps that are open beneath to display close-set gills. Portobellos (or giant cremini) are mature specimens of the familiar white or tan button mushrooms found in Western supermarkets. Typically 4 inches (10 centimeters) or more in diameter, their maturity gives them a meaty, succulent flavor comparable to wild mushrooms.

Buy them fresh, and look for specimens with firm, fawn-colored caps; intact, fine, brown gills; firm, paler stems; and no soft or discolored spots. Portobello caps are delicious when brushed with oil or butter and grilled, then used whole as a sandwich filling or side dish. They can also substitute for meat in many dishes.

Shiitakes. Lentinus edodes have been cultivated in Japan for over a thousand years, where they also grow wild on the shii tree. Shiitakes are medium-sized, with brown or tan umbrella-shaped caps and white gills and stems. They have a smoky, woodsy flavor that holds its own in any dish.

Many varieties of both fresh and dried shiitakes are available. In general, look for fresh ones with firm, spongy caps. Reconstituted dried ones can be used in the same variety of dishes fresh shiitakes can--everything from stir-fries to casseroles to soups.

Oyster mushrooms. Pleurotus ostreatus mushrooms only look like oysters, with fluted caps and irregular stems that jut out, shelf-like, from the sides of the trees on which they grow. There are many varieties on the market, ranging widely in flavor, texture, and color (some are pink!). Most have a sweet and mild, sometimes fruity taste. They can be used anywhere you'd use white mushrooms (they're best if cooked, though).

Others. Other coveted cultivated mushrooms include rich maitake (Grifola frondosa), crunchy dried cloud ears or wood ears (Auriculara group), and slender white enoki (Flammulina velutipes).