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2torial #0827:
Learn2 Housebreak a Puppy

Are your carpets dog-tired?
What's the first trick every dog needs to learn?
Not Roll-over or Fetch the Slippers, but the much
more practical skill of Don't Go Inside the House.
Fortunately, dogs are naturally amenable to, shall
we say, bodily-need modification--but it still
takes time, effort and patience to teach them the
difference between shag carpeting and a patch of
weeds. Housebreaking a dog requires more than
simply laying down newspaper on the kitchen floor.
The trick is to understand the way the canine brain
works, and harness your dog's doggy nature to work
for you.
This 2torial shows you a time-tested way to do
just that. Although a multitude of housebreaking
methods abound, this approach is one that's easy to
learn (for you and your dog) and
easy to stick to. Accidents will happen, but after
three weeks of consistent effort, you should be
well on your way to having a well-trained pooch.

Before you bring your puppy home in his
swaddling clothes, make sure you know what's in
store. Consider this list of minimum requirements
for dog ownership:
1. Commitment: Dogs are demanding--not as
much as babies, but definitely more than cats. For
the first three weeks you have a puppy, plan to be
home as much as possible. If you can't be there,
make sure you have someone reliable who will. If
neither of these is possible, consider tropical
fish instead.
2. Consistency: Dogs are creatures of
habit, and house-breaking is a process of creating
good habits. As a result, you must be willing to
stick to a strict schedule, at least for the first
month or so, with regularly scheduled times for
meals, walks, play and sleep. That means Saturday
and Sunday morning, too--no sleeping in!
3. Patience: Your new puppy won't always
hold back until he gets outside. Mistakes are
inevitable, and they're going to tick you off.
Slapping and shouting may temporarily relieve your
frustration, but they contribute nothing to the
process of housebreaking your dog. In fact, no form
of reprimand is effective unless you catch the dog
in the act, and anything more than a strong no and
a firm shake is excessive.
Understand your dog and his
instincts
Unless you see life through a dog's eyes, the
housebreaking process may seem arbitrary. But if
you enter into a puppy's world, you'll be a more
sympathetic and effective master. You need to know
some things about your new companion:
Bladder control: Until puppies reach ten
or 12 weeks, they have little say over their
bladder or bowels. Don't scold the pup for
something that's entirely out of his control.
Instead, concentrate on getting your puppy outside
at the times he's most likely to go.
Creating good habits: A great deal of the
housebreaking process is simply pairing certain
conditions with certain responses. For example,
when you know your puppy has to go, take him
outside and put him on the grass. If you repeat
this process enough, he'll actually associate grass
with doing his duty. This is also why you always
want to return to the same area for your pup's
potty trips.
Living for the moment: Puppies live in an
eternal present. Unless you catch a dog in the act,
don't scold him, especially if he's very young.
Shoving his nose in the mess after the fact will do
nothing except instill fear--of you!
Sniffing and circling: When a dog has to
go, he'll usually let you know by circling and
sniffing--unless he's really desperate and doesn't
have time. When you see this happening, stop him
with a firm "No" and perhaps a tug at the scruff of
the neck. Then take him outside immediately.

Clean bed: Dogs have a natural instinct
not to soil their beds. If you keep your puppy in a
confined space when he's unsupervised--in a crate,
for example--he'll hold it until you let him out
(at least after he reaches about ten weeks). If at
this point you take him straight outside, you're on
your way to creating the right habits.
Consider a crate
Some dog-owners hesitate to lock their beloved
in the cruel confines of a crate. Their sympathy is
understandable, but is the crate really cruel?
Experts claim that dogs, especially puppies, like
small, confined, warm places. As long as they get
enough time for exercise and bonding, they're
actually quite happy and relaxed in their crate and
spend most of their time sleeping.
Most importantly, the crate will give you more
control over when your puppy relieves himself,
allowing you to instill the habit that outside is
the place to go. Just make sure you take him
outside as soon as you open the crate.

These tips will make crate use as smooth as
possible:
- Make it a comfortable, cozy environment. Put
down a soft blanket, and make sure it's in a
warm room (but not too warm).
- Make sure the crate's not too large
(otherwise the puppy will treat part of it like
a bathroom). It should be just large enough for
him to stand up, turn around and lie down again.
- Include a piece of your own clothing that
has your scent. This will make the dog feel more
at ease and at "home." In addition, leave toys
that he can chew on and play with.
- Never use the crate as punishment. It's
supposed to be a safe, comfortable environment,
not a prison.
- When you first get a puppy, put him in the
crate for half an hour at a time, even when
you're home. This way the dog doesn't associate
the crate with your absence (and thus
punishment).
- Lavish praise on the dog when he gets in and
out of the crate. Feed him a small treat so he
has good associations with it.
- When the dog is out of the crate, leave the
door open. You may find that he goes into the
crate voluntarily. Again, this will help him
think of the crate as a home, not a
penitentiary.
Use praise, not blame
In nature, dogs tend to form hierarchical social
groups, and when they're domesticated, you're
considered the leader of the pack. As a result,
they very much want your approval. If you dole out
praise at the correct times, you'll reinforce
desirable behavior.
So when your puppy gets in and out of his crate,
tell him how perfectly wonderful he is. When he
does his duty in the right place, act like he's
just broken the four-minute mile.
And when he's been naughty? A very firm "No!" is
far more effective than a rolled-up newspaper.
Remember, dogs are people-pleasers. If you stay on
their good side, they'll naturally want to do right
by you.
Set up a routine
Dogs, especially puppies, thrive on routine. If
you stick to a strict schedule of meals, walks,
sleep and play, both you and your dog will know
what to expect. You'll know exactly when your dog
will most likely need to go, and you'll be prepared
to get him outside in plenty of time, thus avoiding
accidents and--even more importantly--instilling
good habits.
As you set up your schedule, remember that
puppies run like clockwork, and they have to
relieve themselves at specific times:
1. When they first wake up in the morning or
after a nap
2. Within 20 minutes of eating
3. After active play
4. Before they go to sleep
If at any time you take your puppy out and he
doesn't go, put him back in his crate and try a
little later.
Here's an ideal schedule (remember not to vary
it on weekends):

Deal with accidents
Accidents happen--especially when you've got a
new puppy in your home. Until your dog reaches six
or eight months, you can expect him to slip up
occasionally (trainers would say it's you who's
slipped up, either by changing his diet or walk
schedule abruptly). Remember not to punish him
unless you catch him in the act--it simply won't
work otherwise. If you do catch him, give him a
firm "No" and take him straight outside.

When he does make a mess, it's important to
clean it up quickly and remove any trace of odor.
When odors linger, they're a signal to your dog
that it's a place to go. To remove odors, use a
commercial cleaner, odor neutralizer or simply
white vinegar, but be sure not to use an
ammonia-based cleanser. Ammonia is a component of
urine and can actually attract the dog's attention.
Start taking risks
Of course, your puppy can't expect your rapt
attention for the rest of his life. After two to
three weeks of a strict schedule, you can start to
introduce some flexibility. Think of this as an
experiment: at certain points, you might find the
pooch needs more time. Here are the steps of the
weaning process:
- Try stretching out times between walks by 30
minutes a week, or even an hour. Your dog will
let you and your carpet know when you're going
too fast.
- Give your puppy more and more time outside
the crate (though preferably in a room with an
easy-to-clean floor such as the kitchen).
However, continue to put him in the crate both
at night and when you leave the house
unattended, until he's earned your total trust.
- Slowly introduce him into other rooms in the
house, though always under strict supervision.

- Stick to one brand of dog food, and if you
do switch brands, have a transition period.
Changing foods can cause diarrhea.
Your puppy will inevitably slip up (just as most
children do), but don't be discouraged. If you're a
diligent and dependable master in the first few
months of your puppy's life, you'll be rewarded
with a lifetime of good behavior.
-end-
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