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2torial #0815:
Learn2 Appreciate Beer

Take one down and pass it around . . .
It's O.K. to be a little suspicious. After all,
good beer looks, smells and tastes a lot different
than that case of "light" beer you just bought.
Just be warned--as you start to like the good
stuff, the realization that you've been buying
weak, tasteless, cheaply produced swill for so long
can be pretty painful. Quality also comes at a
higher price. Bargaining with liquor store owners
won't get you anywhere, though--case discounts
rarely apply to microbrewed six-packs. So try not
to get too depressed, the best things in life
always seem to cost more, and drinking quality
instead of quantity is a decent trade-off. Once
you've finally accepted that you can't stomach
cheap beer anymore, you'll be all right--you've
opened the path towards a whole new range of
conversation with that attractive stranger at the
bar. It's just a matter of expanding your
vocabulary a bit to describe what you can now
appreciate.

When you speak of beer, you're usually talking
about how it looks and smells, as well as what it
tastes like. People's tastes may be different, but
chances are you'll be able to agree on a surprising
number of things. It's mostly a matter of
understanding a bit about what beer is made of, and
how those ingredients contribute their own
characteristics to the finished product. As you
drink more beer, you'll develop some appreciation
for the good stuff--beer that isn't brewed just to
make the most money possible in the least amount of
time.
Understand the basic
ingredients
Hundreds of years ago the Germans must have been
pretty upset with the quality of some of their
brews, because they felt compelled to establish the
German Purity Law. The law essentially said that
their beer could made of four things: barley, hops,
yeast and water. These four items each bring
something a little different to the table when we
speak about beer.

Barley is a cereal grain, and the most
fundamental ingredient. It must undergo malting
before it can be used to make beer. Barley
introduces color, sweet flavor, body, a good head
and the natural sugars needed for fermentation.

Hops are the pinecone-like flowers of a
cannabis-family plant. Hops have many varieties,
and they're usually so delicate that they're
hand-picked. When boiled, they release a sticky
substance called lupulin that provides the
bitterness to counterbalance the barley's
sweetness, adds flavor, provides aroma and helps
preserve beer.

Yeast: This single-cell organism of the
fungus family is responsible for the fermentation
process. It happily takes in sweet liquids and
produces alcohol and carbon dioxide. Some yeast
works best in warmer temperatures (65 to 75 degrees
Fahrenheit) and rises to the top of the batch--it's
used to make ales. Other yeast favors colder
temperatures (38 to 52 degrees Fahrenheit) and
sinks to the bottom of the batch--it's used to make
lagers. Ales and lagers are discussed a little
further on.

Water makes up 95% of the finished beer,
and surprisingly isn't always the pure spring water
most commercials would have you believe. It's often
chemically manipulated by adding calcium carbonate,
magnesium, gypsum and other minerals.
Many beers have other ingredients besides these
basic four. Hopefully, the additions are made to
create a specific characteristic. For instance,
fruit-flavored beers may get some syrup added to
them. Summertime beers are often brewed with high
amounts of wheat, which gives them a light, crisp
taste. Wintertime beers might contain various
spices to warm up those cold, lonely nights.
Some beers, though, use cheap additives to
reduce the cost of brewing the beer. The largest
American brewers are known for using unmalted
cereal grains like corn and rice in their brews.
They claim this produces a lighter-style that
Americans like, and the cost reductions are just an
unexpected bonus for them. Hmmm . . .
Know lager from ale
Beer basically comes in two forms: lagers and
ales. One type isn't better than the other--just
different. Terrific examples of each kind abound,
but watch out! Some real stinkers are also out
there.
Lagers include the lighter tasting beers;
they tend to be highly carbonated and crisper than
ales. Beer vocabulary might have you describe them
as smooth, mellow, subtle or clean, perhaps noting
a balanced taste or subdued aroma. The five most
common lagers are American pale lager, Bock,
Munchener helles, Oktoberfest and Pilsner.
Ales tend to be more robust and fruity,
with a spicy taste and aroma. More bitter than
those friendly lagers, ales can offer darker color
and more distinctive tastes. The most common are
pale ale, porter and stout. Wheat beers and
barleywine styles have become more widely available
as people's tastes have expanded.
Look at the beer
You have three things to look at when you pour a
beer: the color, the clarity and the head. Of
course, if you've already had a few too many, you
may see some other things in your glass--but we'll
let those pass for the moment.

Color: To beer lovers, the colors of beer
are almost as lovely as those of the rainbows in
the sky. Beer can be a pale straw color, golden,
amber, copper, red, brown, or black. Some
fruit-flavored beers even have interesting pink or
orange hues. It's best to stay away from that weird
green stuff they serve on St. Patrick's day,
though.
Clarity: As brewing developed, one
measure of a well-made beer became the clarity. A
clear beer was considered the sign of a brewmaster
who cared about his product. As differences in
brewing styles became apparent, however, clarity
became something best used as an indicator of
technique, rather than quality of the brew.
Unfiltered beers often retain great character, many
wheat beers are cloudy as a rule, and some bottled
beers contain live yeast, which allows them to
continue developing more complex tastes.
Head: The head is the foam you see at the
top of the glass. A good head forms quickly on its
own--not because it was splashed into the bottom of
the glass. A head that results from natural
carbonation looks bumpy and uneven, not
artificially smooth and white. As you drink the
beer, the remains of the head should leave little
trails on the side of the glass.
Smell the beer
Like wine critics, serious beer critics use the
term "nose" to describe the beer's aroma and
bouquet. The first prominent aromas usually come
from malting the barley, while secondary aromas
often arise from the type and quantity of hops
used.
Malting can make a beer smell annoyingly
perfumey, richly sweet, and anywhere in between.
Depending how dark the beer is, roasted, toasted,
coffee or chocolate-like aromas may waft from the
surface.
Hops produce a sharper smell that varies
depending on the variety and amount of hops added
to the boiling beer. Some beers are even
"double-hopped," giving their scent a potency that
announces itself as soon as the bottle is opened.
Hops' smells are often described as spicy, herbal,
floral, piney, citrusy, or even, well, cheesy if
hops are old or oxidized.
Other prominent aromas, like fruit and alcohol,
come mostly from the fermentation process. If you
perceive a scent of plastic, cooked vegetables,
rotten eggs, skunks or wet dogs, it's a sign of
badly made or stored beer.
Taste the beer
No matter if it's lager or ale, good beer is
complex, and presents a wide range of flavors in
each taste. If you really want to taste the beer,
don't throw it down your throat. Let it hang around
your mouth for awhile, and good things start to
happen almost immediately .
Any beer walks a fine line between the basics:
sweetness and bitterness. The brewer decides what
the balance between the two is going to be, and how
best to include all the secondary flavors that make
up a beer's character. That character is often
described with some of the following terms:
Aggressive, as in the non-beer world,
means boldly assertive.
Complex describes a beer that's
multidimensional; many flavors and sensations
commingle on the palate.
Fruity is used to describe the nuances
that remind you of berries, apples, pears, bananas,
etc.
Hoppy describes the bitter flavor of the
hops, as well as the slightly spicy overtones that
accompany it.
Malty describes a grainy and caramel-like
taste.
Roasty and Toasty both refer to
roasted grain flavors that may become prominent.
Round describes a beer that strikes a
smooth balance between sweet and spicy
While it's swirling over your tongue, also
notice the mouthfeel and body. Does it feel crisp
and effervescent, or soft and chewy? Light or
full-bodied, perhaps somewhere in between? Words
used to describe these sensations are probably the
easiest to understand. Some, like wimpy,
voluptuous, massive and viscous are also just fun
to use. Others you may hear are robust, astringent,
flat, full, gassy, light, sharp, smooth, thin,
thick or watery.
And now, the finish. It would be a sad thing to
forget how great a beer tasted as soon as it left
your tongue. Contrary to what most beer commercials
tell you, aftertaste can be a good thing.

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