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Intro:
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| To calculate the amount of aggregate you'll need as backfill, multiply the height of the wall with its length, then multiply this with the rough distance between the top of the wall and the point where the embankment begins to slope. Divide this figure by two. Even with only one exterior side, a retaining wall still needs tie stones. Lay them regularly so one end enters the backfill. This will anchor and strengthen the wall. Tamp down the backfill aggregate as you build so the wall is regularly settled. If you're building at the bottom of a long slope or hill, the runoff (the water that moves through the ground) could be significant enough to require a drainage perimeter pipe, available at hardware and landscape supply stores. Lay the pipe against the back of the base stones, on top of the drainage layer of aggregate, then backfill aggregate over it as you build. Follow the package directions regarding fitting and sloping the pipe. |
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With a few tweaks to the design, a dry stone wall can turn into a functional (and beautiful) retaining wall. Here's how it's done: Dig a drainage area. Since the wall will have soil behind one side, it'll be in contact with a lot more moisture. This means you'll need to provide a drainage area behind and below the wall. To start, mark off the wall's base and dig a trench, with the width equaling three-quarters of the wall's height. The trench's back edge should run along the soil embankment. Next, if the embankment isn't naturally sloped, you'll need to dig out enough soil, starting at the back edge of the trench, to create an incline that's about 6 inches for every foot of height (15 centimeters for every 30.5 centimeters).
Build and fill. Line the trench with aggregate, tamp it, lay in your base stones and start building your courses. Since you'll only be building one face, backfill aggregate between the stone and the soil slope as you create the courses. Use the same construction techniques explained earlier, with the exception of canting. Here, you want a slightly steeper cant, about 2.5 inches for every foot (6.3 centimeters for every 30.5 centimeters), since the wall will be supporting more weight. Angle the stones toward the slope when you seat them in the wall.
Cap the wall. You can either build right up to the embankment level, with the aggregate backfilled behind it and showing on the surface, or, for a more natural finish, you can cover the aggregate with soil to grow plants right up to the wall's edge. To do this, stop building and backfilling when the wall is about 8 inches (20.3 centimeters) from the top of the soil slope. Lay down a length of landscape fabric over the top of the aggregate (this will allow water to pass through, but not soil), then continue building the wall. Backfill over the fabric with soil. Whatever method you choose, the wall should reach about 4 inches (10 centimeters) above the backfill when finished.
Remember, retaining walls aren't just for battling erosion. They also work well for creating gardening terraces, planting beds, or just for pure aesthetics. -end- 
All steps at once (printable version) |
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Build a retaining wall (optional)
#0568
Plan a Vegetable Garden
#0506
Hire a Contractor
#0550
Water Your Lawn
#0847
Make a Compost Pile