2torial #0741:
Learn2
Build a Dry Stone Wall (continued)
Build the courses
In masonry, a course is a continuous, level layer of stone, which, when stacked on top of other courses, forms a wall. However, since typical wall stone isn't uniform in size (like brick), a drystack course won't be one level layer of stones, but a mix of sizes and shapes fitted together into one roughly level layer of stones (onto which you build the next course). To get started, follow these guidelines:
Placement. With the exception of laying the base stones, build each course by starting on either end of the wall and regularly alternating between the two ends until the two sides meet in the center and the course is completed. This will help tie the wall together.
Height. Each course's height depends mainly on the size of the stone you use for it. For example, to create a level course with the base stones, you need to stack on top of the shorter ones to square them up with the taller ones; thus, the taller stones determine the height of that course. (Courses typically range from 6 to 12 inches, or 15.3 to 30.5 centimeters.)
Levelness. Remember: roughly level. With the course layer's crest, you mainly want to provide a stable shelf for the next course, and ultimately the capstones. If the layer wanders up and down a little, that's fine (although for the last course, you'll want a fairly level base for the capstones).
Joints. When you start a new course (or stack rock within a course) always cover the open joints of the butted stones below it. It's a good policy to have no more than three stones coming together vertically (usually in a T-shaped joint). Too many vertical joints (four stones or more, forming a cross) can weaken the wall's integrity.
Canting. This is absolutely critical to the wall's strength. The rule of thumb is to cant each side toward the center 1.5 inches for every foot (3.8 centimeters for every 30.5 centimeters) on either side. Measure regularly as you build the wall up.
Filler. Continue to add your aggregate filler as you lay your stone. By keeping the filler level crested with your building height, you provide constant stability and backing to the stones. Remember that the aggregate can help form the shelf onto which you stack your next course.
Facing. Don't forget about looks. Keep your joints tight and complementary, using chink stone when needed, and try to orient the stone's best face forward, with its edges as flush as possible with the surrounding stone. Alternate shapes, sizes, and placement. Just remember to save enough of the special stone (such as cap, tie, or cornerstones) for their particular areas.
Once you develop a rhythm for the work and a feel for the stone, you'll be surprised at how involving an activity this is. Mind and muscle combine, and piece by piece your vision becomes reality--a very satisfying process from start to finish.
