A tank

A strong, level stand to hold the tank

A filter

An aquarium hood

A heater

Gravel

Aquarium plants and rocks

A tank thermometer

A siphoning tube

A large bucket

A level

An aquarium-sized fish net

Water testing and purification kits

Fish

Fish food

Optional:

Tank cleaning tools (a razorblade scraper, a magnetic cleaner)

An air pump

Driftwood and other decorations

You'll be making up to three trips to the pet or aquarium store--the first to choose the fish, the second to buy the equipment, and the third to buy the fish. So allow enough time for these trips and then an hour or two to put it all together.

You can find good tanks and equipment at garage sales and thrift stores (although you should always give them a thorough check).

When you buy your tank, fill it with water in a protected, outdoor area (a garage or porch) and let it sit for at least 24 hours to check for leaks.

If you wash your equipment with soap and water prior to assembly, it's extremely important to rinse it thoroughly to remove any trace of soap residue, which can harm or even kill the fish.

If you're having trouble making your tank stand level, you can shim the stand (slip thin pieces of wood under the stand's base until it's level), or you can take a piece of foam padding (like an exercise mat) and put it under the tank before you add the gravel and water.

If you choose to add more fish, feed the old fish first and then turn off the lights. When you add the new ones, the old ones will probably be too full to bother them and may not even notice their arrival in the dark.

2torial #0705: Learn2 Set up a Freshwater Aquarium The Age of Aquarium Think of it--a tiny undersea world of your own making. Colorful creatures slipping and darting through plant fronds, the soothing glow of the tank, and let's not forget the plastic mermaid and bubbling treasure chest. Aquariums are a lot of fun, but they do require a fair amount planning and upkeep. We'll help you get started and keep your freshwater friends happy (and not doing the dead guppy's float). It's a sad childhood memory: how one day you discovered your little pet fish floating belly-up in its glass bowl. Well, you're older now and more responsible, but it's important to remember that even with all the right equipment, fish still require as much attention as any other pet. You're providing their entire ecosystem--if one element isn't functioning properly, the whole setup can be affected. Expect a few slip-ups (and probably a few belly-ups), but once you get into the rhythm of the maintenance and care, you'll have a thriving underwater world at your fingertips. Note: This 2torial covers how to create a freshwater aquarium. If you're interested in keeping saltwater fish, contact your local pet store to get the necessary information and materials. Choose your fish Different fish require different environments. To get an idea of the equipment you'll need, go to the pet or aquarium store and check out the fish selection. Consider not just looks, but the amount of care needed, temperament (aggressive or predatory fish shouldn't be put in with meek ones), the necessary tank size and, probably the most important, water type. Water type includes temperature, hard vs. soft, pH levels and so forth. If you're buying several types of fish, always check with the store manager to be sure they're compatible. Also, think about what kind of aquarium environment you want. Some people like a natural setting for their fish, with real, even indigenous plants and gravel. Others go the blue gravel and plastic plant route. If you want real plants, make sure they won't harm the particular type of fish you've chosen. Choose your aquarium Most fish or pet stores sell an "all-in-one" aquarium package, but don't be so quickly swayed by the convenience. You should know what you'll need first. What size tank is best for your fish? What type of filtration system? You may want to mix and match. Start with the basics: the tank and the stand. A tank. Find one that's at least 10 gallons (38 liters), which is about one by two feet. With anything smaller, it'll be difficult to keep the water chemistry stable, and your fish will be too crowded. Avoid vertical-shaped tanks, particularly if you want live plants (light has trouble reaching the bottom). Horizontal tanks are easier to clean and provide more living room for your fish, since fish generally move side to side, not up and down. You also have a choice between glass or acrylic, and both have pros and cons. Glass is usually cheaper, sturdier and harder to scratch, but it can crack and it's very heavy. Acrylic is lighter and has less light distortion, but it scratches easy and needs special supports at the tank's base. An aquarium hood. This serves two functions: it covers the tank, preventing water evaporation and frisky fish from trying to make a break for it, and it holds the aquarium's fluorescent lights. The strength of the lights will depend on whether or not you want to grow plants (which usually need strong light). Some fish don't like it too bright, so again, choose carefully. An aquarium stand. A stand can be a table, a bookcase, an entertainment center or the like. Just remember it will have to support a fair amount of weight (a 10-gallon tank filled with water and gravel is about 100 pounds) and must be level. Choose your equipment You might be a little overwhelmed by all the equipment available for your fish. Who knew they'd need so much? But fear not--here's a list of what you should have to get started: 1. A filter. There are three basic types of filtration: mechanical, biological and chemical. Most aquarium pros prefer a filter that combines a mechanical function--or a "pre-filter"--to trap particles like plant debris and uneaten food, and a biological function, which breaks down the dangerous ammonia that comes from fish waste. Chemical filtration is used for foreign chemical toxins, like soap or perfume. If you're careful about what goes into your tank, you shouldn't need this type (although many filters come with chemical filtration included). What you need may depend on the size of your tank, and the type and amount of fish you want. Other considerations are the filter's noise level, maintenance and, of course, cost. 2. A heater. The vast majority of aquarium fish are tropical, so chances are you'll need a heater to keep the temperature steady--usually about 78F (25.5C). There are many types and the cost can vary. Some heaters are completely submersible, while others submerge partially, with the controls on the outside of the tank. 3. Gravel. The general rule of thumb is one pound of gravel for every gallon of water. The wrong type of gravel can change the water content and harm the fish, so buy it at the pet or aquarium store and make sure it's for freshwater use. 4. Plants and rocks. These are not just for decoration. Fish need markers to remember their territory and places to hide from the more aggressive fish. Just make sure whatever you choose is safe. Synthetic decorations should be free of any chemicals (soap, perfume, paint and so on) and well cleaned. 5. A thermometer. This lets you verify that your tank is at the right temperature. You can buy models that attach to the outside of the tank or that are submersible. 6. A siphoning tube and bucket. You'll use these to fill the tank and change the water (about 10 to 20 percent of the water should be changed every month). Always make sure the bucket is clean; it's a good idea to use it only for the aquarium. 7. A fish net. When you change the water, you'll need to move your fish temporarily into another container. An aquarium net makes that process a lot easier. 8. Water testing and purification kits. Technically, you could keep a healthy aquarium without any water tests or purifiers, but it's always good to be safe, especially if you use municipal tap water (which usually contains chlorine or chloramine--toxic to fish). The kits are usually cheap and simple to use. Optional materials. You mean there's more? Well, only for looks. Feel free to get more decorations--driftwood looks particularly nice (boil it briefly before putting it in the tank). Air pumps provide that bubble aesthetic and can be camouflaged by rocks or the classic treasure chest. (Note: due to innovations in filters, air pumps are not necessary for a healthy tank.) And while a sponge with a plastic scouring pad is usually enough to clean the tank, special tools such as razorblade scrapers or magnetic cleaners are available. Note: some dish sponges contain chemicals that can be harmful or deadly to fish. When cleaning your aquarium, you should only use sponges made specifically for that purpose. Set up the aquarium Okay, time to turn this pile of strange equipment into a fully functioning ecosystem. The steps are as follows: Choose a good location to set up your aquarium. The area shouldn't be in direct sunlight (due to algae growth) or near loud noises, like a stereo (fish can be sound-sensitive). An outlet should be nearby for the filter, lights and other electric equipment. Remember, once it's filled, it'll be very difficult to move. Position the tank on the aquarium stand. Check the stand's surface with a level (a filled tank can crack or even break if it's uneven). Rinse the gravel in warm water, then distribute it over the tank's bottom. Remember the ratio: one pound to one gallon. (Note: If you're using an under-gravel filter, install the filter first, then the gravel.) Using the bucket, fill the tank with room temperature water until it's about two-thirds full. Add the plants, rocks and decorations. Keep in mind that caves and recesses make for more interesting viewing and provide shelter for timid fish. Put in the heater and air pump (if needed), following the manufacturer's directions. Fill the tank the rest of the way and add the filter. Again, follow the manufacturer's directions. Attach the thermometer, secure the hood, plug everything in, and make sure it's all running properly. The lights don't have to be on all the time, but other components do, especially the filter, so make sure there's no danger of an accidental unplugging. You can either test the water chemistry now or wait to see what kind of effect the filter has. If you want to wait, let the filter run 24 hours, then make the necessary tests and add purifiers as needed. Once the water checks out both chemically and temperature-wise (which depends on the tank size and the type of water and filter used), your aquarium will be ready for its new inhabitants. Add your fish When you go back to the pet or aquarium store to pick up your fish (and don't forget their food!), buy fewer than your tank can support. Even with good filtration, too many fish in a newly prepared tank can overload it with toxic bacteria and ammonia. The tank needs time to adapt, so pace yourself. The store will put your fish in a plastic bag for transport. If the trip from the store to your home is more than half an hour, leave some oxygen in the bag for safety. When you get home, make sure the bag's water temperature matches the tank's to avoid shocking the fish. You can float the bag in the tank water to even the temperature, or open the bag and add small amounts of tank water to it. When the water is ready, open the bag gently so the top is underwater and the fish can simply swim into the tank (don't pour them in). You also won't need to feed them their first day, because they'll probably be too stressed to eat. Even if the fish are swimming and the equipment is running, keep a close watch on everything. Check the equipment regularly (especially the filter), keep an eye out for any signs of fish stress (gasping for breath, loss of appetite, fungus or parasites), and don't forget the monthly water change. As your fish settle in, you'll become familiar with their individual and species habits, get to know their likes and dislikes, and be an integral part of their underwater world. -end- Learn More!