A set of snow chains sized to fit your car tires

A pair of gloves that'll keep your hands dry, but your fingers fairly flexible. Expect them to get dirty.

Adequate clothing for the task: you'll want to stay warm, but you'll also want the flexibility to crouch down around your tires.

15-30 minutes, depending on weather conditions

2torial #0696: Learn2 Install and Remove Snow Chains Slip sliiiidin' away... Somewhere along the road the slush turns to good honest snow-pack, and you're glad for the heavy little box that's been sitting in your trunk for lo these many months. You'll also be glad to have a good pair of gloves with you, because bare flesh on freezing metal is not a happy combination. Fortunately, just a few minutes out in the cold will soon put you on your way again, this time safely. Besides, who wants to pay someone 50 bucks just to put on a pair of snow chains? You'll need six to ten feet of clearance in either the front or the rear of your car. This will give you the space to maneuver your car onto the chains. If you're out on the road, find a level, straight stretch over on the shoulder. Be sure that oncoming motorists will be able to see you and your car in plenty of time to stay out of your way. If your car is still in the driveway (lucky you) pack down or shovel the snow so that your car can easily roll straight for six to ten feet. Important Note: Protect your hands and toes! Make sure your parking brake is set before working around your tires. We've received word from an emergency worker that crushed fingers and feet are not an uncommon result of applying snow chains--due to cars unexpectedly rolling a few inches at the wrong moment. As an extra precaution, you also might consider placing blocks under the downhill side of a couple of tires. Pull out the chains There are several different kinds of snow chains for your car. Most are made of stainless steel links. Newer models use cables instead of chain-links, and they may be studded or corrugated to increase traction on the road. For the purposes of this 2torial, the name for this tool will be "chains," but the same principles should apply to installing most makes. In the box of tire chains, you should find two sets of chains or cables, depending on the make, and two rubber loops with hooks attached. Each chain set looks sort of like a ladder, with a closing mechanism at the end of each long strand. Lay 'em on the line Once you've figured out the ladder analogy, understanding how snowchains work is fairly simple. The two long strands are designed to wrap around the tire, one on the inside of the tire and the other parallel to it along the outside. The rungs of the ladder, as it were, cross over the tire tread. This ingenious design somehow manages to give your tires support and traction over slippery, soft snow. Important: Protect your hands and toes! Make sure to apply the parking brake before laying out the chains, and later before hooking them up. We've received word from a few EMTs that crushed fingers and feet are not an uncommon result of applying snow chains--due to cars unexpectedly rolling a few inches at the wrong moment. As an extra precaution, you also might consider placing blocks under the downhill side of a couple of tires. Determine whether the car is front or rear wheel drive. (Do the front wheels propel the car, or do the rear ones?) You want the chains hooked up to the tires which are doing all the work. If you're on an incline then prepare to let the tires roll downhill onto the chains. Rear wheel drive: Clear a path in the snow about five feet long in front of the tires. If you have rear-wheel drive you're lucky: the front wheels should have already cleared a path for you. Lay the chains out underneath the car, with the first rung laid against the tire where it meets the ground. If you have cables with studs or some other form of corrugation on them, make sure these are lying face down on the ground. Front-wheel drive: If you have front-wheel drive, or need to back up your rear-wheeler, then clear a path by stomping down on the snow, shoveling, or driving your car back and forth (if the road conditions allow the last option). Again, lay the chains in the path of each tire. The rung closest to the tire should be wedged up against it. The long strands should extend straight out away from the tires, parallel to each other. Drive-up In this step you'll drive partway onto the chains, check their alignment, and continue driving to put the tires into their final position on the chains. Get in the car, or let a partner do it if you're not alone. Slowly drive the car onto the chains. Stop when you've driven two feet onto them. Make sure each tire is sitting squarely on its chain. The strands should overlap both sides of the tire equally. Check both tires on this point. The straight and the crooked: If one or both of the chains are crooked, pull the chains straight into the path of the tire. Make sure each side is parallel. Then pull up the car and stop when the tires are directly on top of the rungs. Reader's Response: A UPS driver from a mountain ski resort wrote in with an alternative to driving onto the chains. In some instances, it may be difficult or impractical to clear a path in the snow. If so, try draping the chains over the tires. Lay the chain on the tire as it is supposed to fit (rungs across the tread, strands on outside and inside of tire), then align the remainder behind the wheel. Get as much of the chain on the tire as possible. Pull forward about two feet, not far enough for the other end of the chain to slide off. (You can also use this method in reverse gear.) Make sure the chains are still aligned properly on the tires, and that the ends of the chains are in a good position for you to connect them. Now proceed to Step 4. Hook 'em up Now comes the fun part. Reach down and take hold of the longest ends of the chains. Drape them over the tire so that the long strands hang down evenly, one end along the inside (axle side) of the tire and the other end hanging along the outer rim of the tire. Take a look at the closing mechanism. Again, different models may work differently, but most operate as a hook or a clip which holds the ends of the chains together. Most mechanisms fit through an open link on the other end of the same strand. Then they're closed shut to hold the strands fast. The hook-up: Hook the mechanism into an open link which will make the strand into a nice, tight circle. It is important to make the strands as snug as possible, but allow yourself a link or two of slack if it means easier closure. We'll take up the slack in the next step. Inside, then outside: Hook the inside strand first. Then hook the outer strand. Then move to the other side of the car and repeat the process. Learn2 Install and Remove Snow Chains (Continued) Clip them down Now take up those rubber loops with the hooks attached (remember those funny-looking things?) These will help hold the chains snug against the tire. Attach one hook onto a strand roughly midpoint between two rungs. Then attach a hook directly across the hubcap on the opposite length of that strand. Work your way around the tire in this manner until all hooks are attached to the strand at roughly equal intervals. Don't worry that it's not altogether straight at this point. When you start rolling the chains will distribute themselves evenly. Attach the other rubber loop. Attach it to the chains on the opposite tire just as you did before. Start out slow...   Get back in the car and warm yourself up. You did it! Assuming you followed all the directions above (in order) you now have snow chains on your car and are ready to go. Start out slowly to give the chains a moment to adjust themselves evenly on your tires. Listen carefully as you go. If you hear any banging or repetitive knocking, stop the car. Get out and investigate any loose ends which could be banging the underbody of the car. Check the clips and make sure the chainsare still attached at both inside and outside strands. When everything checks out, proceed cautiously. If you've bothered to install chains in the first place, you're admitting that the driving conditions are hazardous. Never exceed 40 miles per hour when driving with snow chains. Give yourself at least twice the distance as usual between your car and the car in front of you. Anticipate your stops, corners, and turns--avoid making sudden movements. Remove the chains When the road becomes clear of snow, ice, sand, etc., pull over and remove the chains. Do not drive with chains on pavement. The steps are the same as above, but in reverse order.   Pick a spot where other cars can see and avoid you. Apply the parking brake! Unclip the rubber loops. Unhook the inside and outside chains. Pick the chains off the tire and lay straight out on the ground. Drive four or five feet, until the tires are completely off the chains. Put chains and rubber loops back in their box. Be careful where you put them down. They're probably wet and could rust, or damage fabrics. Happy motoring! Drive away carefully and be aware of other motorists on the road. -end- Learn More!