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Intro: |
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| Keep your tier(s) at least 6 inches (15 centimeters) wide. If you're designing a formal pond, you'll probably want the tier(s) to be the same width all around. |
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Once you've found your spot, it's time to figure out what the pond will look like: Shape. Most pond shapes tend to fall into two categories--formal and natural. Formal ponds are typically rectangles with a regimented edge of set stone (think of formal European gardens). Natural ponds can be any shape, usually with a shoreline of different-sized stone. Try to find a shape that fits the natural contours and overall design of your landscape.
Surface area. Unless you have access to mechanical digging equipment, like a backhoe, you're going to be moving all of that dirt yourself, so keep the scale manageable. A reasonable starter size is about 15 to 30 square feet (1.4 to 2.7 square meters). Floor and tiers. The depth of the pond must be at least 2 to 3 feet (61 to 91 centimeters). The sides should rise in tiers, or steps, which encircle the floor (instead of being vertical). You'll need at least one tier below the water's surface (usually about 1 to 1.5 feet, or 30 to 47 centimeters, above the floor) to support plants and rocks. Each tier needs to be a flat, level plane.
Shoreline. Plan for another tier just above or below the water's surface to act as a shelf for the shoreline of rocks and gravel. For more details on creating a shoreline, see Step 6. When your design is complete, mark the pond's outline on the ground by using spray paint (this works well for a curved shape--spray along a hose edge), or stakes and string (better to outline more formal designs). Include the shoreline area if it will be recessed.
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Design the pond
