For a small to medium hole in a smooth plaster wall:

Base coat plaster (water and pre-mix plaster)

Finishing plaster (Hydrated lime, gauging plaster and water)

A plastic mortar box

A rectangular trowel

A flat metal surface with a handle underneath (known as a "hawk" for some reason)

Some metal screen lath

Metal snips

A chisel

Some flathead nails

A hammer

Some plaster bonding agent

A small bucket

A flour sifter

A large paintbrush

A piece of plywood, about 2' x 2'

A strip of metal or plastic, about 1/8" thick and small enough to fit inside the hole once it's been prepared (see below)

A plastic hair comb

For a hole in a gypsum board wall:

A new piece of gypsum board

Some paper wallboard tape

Some joint compound, referred to as "mud"

Some drywall screws

A Phillips-head screwdriver

A wallboard knife, about 5" wide

A keyhole saw

A large nail

A hammer

A pencil

A ruler

Some fine (100 grit) sandpaper, and a sanding block

An old salad plate

A piece of 1" x 3" lumber, about three times as long as the hole that you'll cut around the damaged area (see below)

About half an hour for the initial patch, before painting

2torial #0658: Learn2 Patch a Hole "Quick! Before the landlord sees it!" So, that was one heck of a party last night, and your friends had a really good time. Who was that guy who brought his own whiskey? Maybe he was the one who punched that hole in the bathroom wall....oh well, you needed to practice your wall-patching skills in any case, right? There are two types of wall that you're likely to encounter: plaster and gypsum board. A plaster wall is difficult to repair: larger holes as well as corner work are best left to a professional, while smaller holes can be worth trying to repair yourself. If you've got to match a textured surface, get a pro...you can watch and learn for next time. A gypsum board wall is easier to repair, but patience and care are still required to produce best results. Professionals spend months learning proper "mud and tape" technique. As far as knowing the type of wall that you've got, keep this in mind: If someone broke their hand making the hole, it's likely a plaster wall. If no hands were broken, it's a gypsum board wall. Method 1: Plaster Wall When repairing a plaster wall, you'll first prepare the area, then apply a first coat of plaster over a metal screen "lath". Finally you'll apply a second coat of plaster and smooth it all out for painting. Method 1 - Step 1   Method 2: Gypsum Board Wall When repairing a gypsum board wall, you'll first cut a rectangular hole where the damage is. Next, you'll place a fresh piece of board in there, and seal the seams with the tape and "mud". Method 2 - Step 1 Method 1: Plaster Wall Prepare the area Pull off any crumbled plaster around the hole in the wall. Then use the hammer and chisel to extend the hole a little into the good plaster; a rectangular opening will be easiest to work with. Next: Use the metal snips to cut the metal lath so that it will fit inside the opening. Nail the metal lath to the wooden lathing strips that you'll see inside. Brush some bonding agent onto the plaster edges surrounding the hole, to prevent them from absorbing moisture from the new plaster. It's not a bad idea to brush some agent onto a bit of the surrounding wall as well. The bonding agent will require a few minutes to become tacky. Apply the first coat of plaster Mix up enough pre-mix plaster to fill the hole. Transfer the mixture to the plywood, and pulverize any small unmixed lumps with the edge of the trowel. Transfer some of the mixture to the hawk, and hold it in one hand.   Place the hawk beneath the edge of the hole. Use the long edge of the trowel to gather some mixture, and press the edge of the trowel against the wall so that the mixture is caught between the trowel and the wall.   Bring the trowel upwards in a sweeping motion, so that the mixture is pressed into the hole. Make only one motion, rather than going back and forth.   Repeat until the metal lath has been covered, moving the hawk and trowel as needed.   Don't spread the mixture more than 1/2" thick. After a few minutes, add another layer, if need be, to bring the mixture to within 1/16" of the surrounding area. Remember, the finishing coat will bring the material flush with the surrounding area. Then: Take that piece of metal or plastic, and use it to level the mixture within the hole. Work left to right, and then up and down. Move the "smoother" tool slightly, from side to side, as you smooth the mixture. This will help prevent build-up on the tool.   When the plaster has set for several minutes, use the comb to create some texture to which the finishing coat can adhere. Note: If the hole is very small, you may need to use a smaller pointed trowel to keep the mixture from climbing the sides of the opening. Add the second coat of plaster   Take the time to mix the finishing plaster thoroughly; any lumps will probably be visible in the finished wall. This stuff dries very quickly, and you'll need to apply it without delay. Have a helper standing by to mix up some more if it looks as if you're running out. The finishing plaster is one part water, one part gauging plaster, and three parts hydrated lime. Clean off the plywood and trowel before you begin. Put about two-thirds of the water in the bucket, then mix in lime until the mix looks soft and creamy enough to spread on your morning toast.   Place the mixture on the plywood, and pulverize any lumps with the edge of the trowel. Shape the mixture into a ring, with an open center.   Pour the rest of the water into the center of the ring, and sift the gauging plaster into it; the water will be absorbed. Let it rest for a moment. Don't stir, as this will cause it to set more quickly.   Mix the "ring" into the center with the trowel to combine the elements of the plaster.   Starting from the top of the hole, spread the mixture over the first coat of plaster. Spread some past the edges of the hole to make it flush with the surrounding wall area. Quickly clean the trowel off. Add the finishing touches Here's where you earn your stripes, folks. A master plasterer can accomplish this finishing step quickly and effortlessly. So, here goes: Wet the paintbrush. Alternate using the wet brush, and the trowel to create a smooth surface that's flush with the surrounding wall and not bulging. Brush some water over the surface to finish it all off.   Prime and paint the area to match the rest of the wall. Prepare the area Using the pencil and ruler, draw a rectangle around the damaged area. Drive the nail through each corner point, and then remove it.   Use the keyhole saw to cut out the rectangular area. Start the cut for each side by inserting the saw into one of the nail holes. Create two braces for the patch Cut two pieces of the 1" x 3" lumber so that they're about 6" longer than the opening.   Hold one piece of lumber behind the opening in such a way that it extends equally above and below the opening. Half of its width should be visible where you're holding it.   Drive a screw into the wall, so that it pierces the upper portion of the lumber behind the wall. Repeat this with a second screw at the bottom of the lumber. Screw them down so that the screw heads are depressed, and not flush with the wall surface (but don't tear the gypsum board surface).   Repeat the last two steps with the other piece of lumber, so that you have two braces to screw the new piece of board into. Install the patch Use the section of wall that you've removed as a template for the new piece that you're going to install. Next: Cut a new piece of gypsum board that will fit snugly into the opening in the wall with the keyhole saw.   Place the piece in the opening, so that it rests on the new wooden braces. Screw at least four screws into the board, so that they pierce the braces behind. Remember to depress the heads so that they're not flush with the wall surface, but don't tear the gypsum board paper surface. Mud and tape Here's where you create a smooth surface to paint over later. There are two types of tape on the market: one kind self-adheres when wet while the other kind is perforated, and is pressed into the compound. For beginners, the second kind is generally a bit easier to work with, and that's what we'll use here. Take a small amount of joint compound (mud), and thin it slightly with water, not too much, perhaps two tablespoons of water for a cup's worth of mud. Put the mud on the old salad plate.   Take the wallboard knife, and pick up some mud. Draw it over the seams between the patch and the wall, as well as the depressions where the screw heads are sunk. You are not trying for a flush surface, but one that bulges where a gap has been filled.   Repeat as many times as necessary to fill all the gaps and depressions. Again, don't try to get a perfect surface at this point. You'll want to lay the mud on a bit thick (perhaps 1/8" ) and spread it on either side of the seams as you'll be embedding the tape in the mud. Cut four pieces of tape so that they will each cover a seam, but not overlap. Take the wallboard knife, and press the tape into the wet mud, starting from one end and working towards the other. Position each piece of tape so that it meets the edge of another.   Take a small amount of mud on the knife, and run it over the tape. You want the tape covered with a thin layer, and the edges of the tape concealed in the mud.   Wait a few hours for the mud to dry, then sand the surface gently with the block and sandpaper.   Lay another thin coat of mud over the taped areas with the knife, wait for a day and sand it again. Make an effort this time to achieve a smooth, even surface before priming and painting.   Prime and paint the area to match the rest of the wall   -end- Learn More!