2torial #0619:
Learn2 Grow Beautiful Roses

Everything's coming up roses

Roses require a lot of care, which they richly reward with famously fragrant and beautiful flowers. Some people will tell you growing roses is an art, others will tell you it's madness. They're both right. But there's a method to that madness, and if you want to grow beautiful roses, we'll tell you how.

Roses need a lot of sunlight, at least 6 hours of direct exposure each day. If your garden is shady, roses won't flourish. They also require a lot of water and vigorous pruning once a year (with less intense pruning at other times). They can be susceptible to pests and require powerful chemicals and tender loving care to get over a bout with insects or fungus. All this means that if you don't have time to devote to gardening, roses won't do well for you. But if you do have time, roses can reward you with gorgeous flowers for your home and garden.

If you decide to try rose gardening, the required tools and soil amendments can be found at nurseries and garden supply stores.

Choose the right rose

You can buy roses from a local plant nursery, from a catalog, or online by typing "buy rose plant" into a search engine. The advantage of the local nursery is that they'll have experience with the types of roses that do well in your climate--and they're right there whenever you have questions. Because roses are bred for hardiness and size as well as color and scent, some will suit your garden better than others. Keep these considerations in mind:

Your climate. In the United States, there are 11 different planting zones based on climate, which are determined by the U.S. Department of Agriculture. Horticulturalists in other countries have outlined specific climatic zones as well. Use these zones to help determine what kind of weather is typical for your area and to choose a rose that deals well with whatever your climate features, whether it's heavy winters, hot summers, or humidity.

Rose varieties. In addition to your climate, consider what kind of bloom you want. There are different types for different gardening needs and designs. The basic varieties include the following:

• Hybrid tea roses are the most popular and feature a single, elegantly formed rose bloom at the end of a long stem (also called a "cane"). Plants are upright and bushy, usually about 3 feet (1 meter) tall.

• Floribunda roses offer smaller flowers in clusters on shorter stems. When grouped in low hedges, ornamental beds, or containers, they provide a mass of color.

• Grandiflora roses feature classically formed blossoms (like hybrid tea roses) appearing in floribunda-like clusters on long stems. The bushes grow up to 6 feet (2 meters) tall.

• Shrub roses include bush-like plants that don't fit into other categories. They're usually very hardy and require relatively low maintenance.

• Climbing roses have long, spindly canes that need support. You can weave or tie them onto a fence or trellis, giving the impression that the rose "climbs."

• Miniature roses grow from 6 to 18 inches (15 to 46 centimeters) tall. They're good for garden borders, window boxes, and indoor pots.

Prepare the ground

If you have good soil, you'll have good roses. Here's how to find out what kind of soil you have and how to amend it for roses:

Measure and adjust the pH. The pH measures the acidity or alkalinity of soil on a scale of 1 to 14, with 7 being neutral. Roses like a slightly acidic soil, with a pH of 6.0 to 6.6. An improper balance will prevent the rose from taking nutrients out of the soil. Take a sample of your soil to your local plant nursery or agricultural extension center for testing. Note: Even after you've already planted your roses, it's a good idea to test the soil every two years, especially if you use mulch, which alters the soil's pH balance over time.

If your soil is too alkaline (above 6.6), add agricultural-grade sulfur (or compost, if you have it). If it's too acidic (below 6.0), add powdered limestone. When you add these items, dig them into the soil about 6 inches (15 centimeters) deep. If you're not sure how much to add, consult the nursery or extension office that tested your soil.

Dig a planting hole 2 feet (60 centimeters) wide and a little less than 2 feet (60 centimeters) deep. If you're planting your rose bush among other flowers, give it a little more space than this.

Sprinkle a handful of bonemeal or superphosphate onto the soil at the bottom of the hole to give the roots an extra boost.

Amend the soil. You can make your soil even friendlier to newly planted roses by amending it to provide improved drainage and nutrient levels. Take 50 percent of the soil you dug up and add about half as much composted manure to it. Then add about 15 percent sand and 10 percent peat moss. (The sand will especially help with drainage, and roses require good drainage to grow properly.) Mix this together and dig it into the planting hole you're preparing.

If your soil is mostly composed of clay (you'll know because it's difficult to dig up and will clot together in lumps), it may require some gypsum to break up the clay clots. Add just enough to keep the soil from clotting.

Plant the rose bush

Now you're ready to make your chosen rose part of your garden. Follow these guidelines to plant it:

Soak the root ball or bare roots of your new rose plant, especially if it was shipped to you, because the roots dehydrate easily. If your rose bush arrived with bare roots, experts advise you soak it for a full day. Use either a tablespoon or two (15 to 30 milliliters) of liquid vitamin B-1 (found in health food stores) dissolved in a gallon (3.8 liters) of water, or a commercial transplant solution (follow directions for how much to use).

Trim broken roots back to solid tissue and cut back the root branches by a half-inch (1.3 centimeters) to encourage new growth.

Prune the rose branches back to 6 or 8 inches (15 to 20 centimeters). (For how to prune, see Step 4.) By cutting back the canes at this stage, you're encouraging the roots to establish themselves first, so that once the canes start growing, leafing, and flowering in earnest, the roots are able to supply them with the energy they need to be healthy.

Create a cone of dirt at the bottom of your hole to spread and support bare roots, helping them go in different directions in their search for food. If you're planting a root ball, you don't need to do this, and you should leave the roots undisturbed.

Protect your plant if you live in a cold zone by placing the budded union of the bush (where the main stalks meet) 2 inches (5 centimeters) beneath the ground's surface. This helps insulate the plant during winter.

Fill the hole around the plant with your amended soil, tamping it down with your foot as you fill to eliminate air pockets. When the hole is half filled, water with a mixture of vitamin B-1 and water (about 2 tablespoons per gallon, or 30 milliliters per 3.8 liters) or transplant solution. Fill in the rest of the hole and tamp it down to create a 1-inch (2.5-centimeter) saucer-like indentation around the plant.

Water the indentation until the soil has the consistency of runny pudding.

Mound 6 inches (15 centimeters) of soil around the base of the bush. This will retain moisture and get the plant off to a good start.

Remove the soil mound after three weeks. You should see budding eyes and the beginnings of new branches. If any of the wood is gray or dead, prune it back to green wood.

Prune

Pruning benefits your roses in several ways. It encourages healthy growth and creates more flowers, shapes the plant to increase air circulation, and eliminates damaged or diseased canes.

To prune properly, find an outward-facing cane bud. A quarter-inch (.6 centimeter) above that bud, make a 45-degree angle cut that faces downward and inward, toward the center of the plant. Choosing an outward-facing bud encourages new canes to grow outward, leaving the center clear for circulating air.

There are three times of year in which to prune: late fall, early spring, and during the growing season. The pruning in each season has a different goal:

• Late fall pruning isn't always necessary, and its goal is mainly to cut back extra-tall canes that might whip around in winter winds and disturb the roots. If you decide to prune at this time of year, wait until several frosts have passed, so you can be sure the plant is dormant and your pruning doesn't stimulate new growth instead of letting the plant harden itself for winter.

• Early spring pruning encourages growth, and is the most severe pruning practiced all year. It should take place about 4 weeks before the last frost for your area usually occurs. During this pruning, remove dead, weak, or diseased canes, cut back canes that rub against each other, cut back canes in the center of the plant to open up this area for increased air circulation, and prune back whatever's left about a quarter-inch (.6 centimeter) above an outward-facing bud. You can tell a cane is dead or diseased if it looks gray, is spindly, or is a pale, sickly green or yellow.

• Growing season pruning is mostly a matter of "deadheading," or cutting off flowers as soon as they begin to fade to encourage the blossoming of new flowers. To properly deadhead or cut flowers for your home, cut the flower stem at a 45-degree angle inward, about a quarter-inch (.6 centimeter) above the first leaf with five leaflets.

During the growing season, you should also keep cutting out dead or diseased canes, and lightly shape the bush if you like.

Keep your roses happy

To keep your roses happy, practice these maintenance tips:

Keep watering about an inch (2.5 centimeters) a week. Use a water gauge (the kind that's used to measure rainfall) to keep track; you can find one at your local nursery.

Instead of frequent light waterings, rely on less-frequent but deeper waterings to reach the rose bush's roots. Using a drip hose will keep the branches dry but still deliver plenty of water. If you can't use a drip hose, water early in the morning so leaves and branches can dry out before dusk--this way they'll avoid many of the fungi and diseases that attack damp rose plants.

Mulch the area in summer if your summers are hot. Shredded bark, buckwheat hulls, ground corn cobs, or leaves can keep the roots moist and cool in summer. Cover the soil with about 2 inches (5 centimeters) of mulch when the soil is damp.

Fertilize your roses after the first bloom. Check with your nursery for a suitable rose fertilizer, and follow directions on the package. Generally, you'll only need to fertilize them in the spring and throughout the growing season, according to directions on the fertilizer's label.

Winterize your roses by stopping fertilizer about 6 weeks before the first anticipated frost. In late fall, also stop deadheading flowers, so you don't encourage the plant to keep blooming with winter coming on.

When consistent frosts begin in mid-fall, build a soil mound around the rose's base, 12 to 18 inches (30 to 46 centimeters) high. Later during the fall, apply mulch 1 to 2 feet (30 to 60 centimeters) deep over this mound. Remove any remaining leaves at this time, too.

Remove the winter mound in early spring, when the ground begins to thaw. Work gently, using a hose to slowly erode the mound while protecting the buds trying to grow beneath.

With proper planting and continued care, your roses should be beautiful. In fact, you might even consider competing in a local fair or rose show--after all this work, you'll want to show off your gorgeous blooms!

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