Intro:
Before you begin
Step 1:
Measure and cut the wood
Step 2:
Assemble the window box
Step 3:
Line and seal the window box
Step 4:
Hang the window box (optional)

2torial #0613:
Learn2 Build a Window Box

Window boxes to the soul

Can't bring yourself to the garden? Then bring the garden to your window. Building a window box is a simple project that can accent your home and open up a range of gardening possibilities. You can fill it with flowers, herbs, even vegetables, and tending your little personal patch is as easy as leaning out the window. We'll show you how to get from the raw materials to the finished product.

You can fill your box with potted plants or with soil to grow seeds or transplants. Whatever you choose, use quality materials--doing so will definitely extend the life of the window box (and the plants).

With both pots and straight soil, the wood will be in contact with a lot of moisture, so pick a rot-resistant type, like cedar or redwood. Also, while nails will hold the box together, using galvanized deck screws will make it much more secure, and will help it resist wood expansion from moisture. Finally, pre-drilling the screw holes will make assembly much easier, and keep the wood from splitting.

Always exercise caution when using carpentry tools, even if they aren't electric. Wear closed-toe shoes (steel-toe boots are preferable), work gloves, and, if you use an electric saw, protective eyewear.

Measure and cut the wood

The size of your box depends on the size of the window (if you want to hang it from the windowsill), and what you want to plant. If you want to hang it from a window, the box's length should be 3/4 of an inch (2 centimeters) more than the interior wall studs that frame the window. (For most single windows, the distance between the wall studs is 32 inches, or 81 centimeters). If you're creating a box for a double window, measure the window's width from one outside edge of the trim to the other--this will be the length of your box.

If you'll be using the box to hold potted plants, its height and width should be slightly taller and wider than the largest pot.

The box can be as deep or as shallow as you want, but remember certain plants need more space for root growth than others. If you want to plant seeds or transplants, make sure your box will give them enough room to grow (check the seed packet information, or ask at your garden center).

A finished box is long and rectangular, and made from five cut pieces. For the sake of simplicity, these instructions will be for a box measuring 8 by 6 by 32.75 inches (20.3 by 15.2 by 83 centimeters), using standard "1 by" thickness (which is actually 3/4 of an inch, or 2 centimeters). That means you'll need to cut the following pieces:

• Two long pieces for the front and back (in this case, measuring 1 by 8 by 32.75 inches, or 2.5 by 20.3 by 83 centimeters).

• One bottom piece, the same length but narrower (1 by 6 by 32.75 inches, or 2.5 by 15.2 by 83 centimeters).

• Two side pieces, the width matching the height of the bottom piece, and the height subtracting the width of the bottom piece (1 by 7.25 by 3.75 inches, or 2.5 by 18.4 by 9.5 centimeters).

Save any scraps--you might need them for "spacers" if you hang the box (see Step 4).

Assemble the window box

Now it's time to screw (or nail) your pieces together. Start with the front and back pieces, and mark the points along the bottom of the board into which you'll drill or nail. If the boards are the standard 3/4-inch (2-centimeter) thickness, make your marks about 3/8 of an inch (1 centimeter) from the board's edge. For a 32-inch (81-centimeter) board, these marks should be about 8 inches (20 centimeters) apart. Insert the nails or screws into each point so they're perpendicular with the board, and stop when they just pierce through the other side.

Take your bottom piece and smear a line of wood glue over one of its long edges (it doesn't matter which one). Lay the piece on a flat surface so the opposite (non-gluey) edge is braced against something secure, like a wall. Butt the gluey edge against the bottom of the front or back piece, on the side where the nails or screws will enter. This should form an "L" shape. Hold the L shape steady and drill in the screws (or hammer in the nails) along the bottom edge.

When you're finished, repeat this step for the other side of the bottom piece--you'll be bracing the L against the wall, applying glue, then screwing or nailing in the other piece to form a U. The glue should still be wet when you insert the screws or nails.

Smear a 1/2-inch (1.25-centimeter) wide line of glue along the three inside edges of both ends of the U, then slip the side pieces into these spaces.

Lay the box on its side (longways) and mark off the points along the sides of the front or back piece where you'll screw or nail (for an 8-inch or 20-centimeter width, they should have three secured points). Hammer in the nails or drill in the screws. Flip over the box to secure the other side.

Finally, flip the box so its bottom faces upward and add a couple of nails or screws to each end of the bottom piece, so they're secured to the side pieces.

Now all that's left is to seal it, line it, fill it, and hang it or place it somewhere.

Line and seal the window box

How you line and seal your window box depends on whether you want to keep it indoors or out.

Indoors:

First, sand the outside of the box, smoothing down any rough edges. If you want to fill the box with soil (or use pots without trays), it's a good idea to waterproof the wood. To do this, you can either cover the inside with a natural sealant, like linseed oil or beeswax, or line it with tar paper or heavy-duty plastic (use your wood glue to attach it to the sides). Seal the inside edges with a bead of exterior caulk. Let the caulk dry, then add a 1-inch (2.5-centimeter) layer of gravel to the bottom.

If you're using straight soil, cover the gravel with a piece of landscape cloth or plastic window screening. If you're using pots, you can just sit the pots on the gravel. For a final touch, you can paint or stain the outside of the box. Fill it with soil and your favorite plants, set it in a sunny area, and watch your window box bloom.

If you want to fill the box with potted plants, skip the sealants, put plant trays on the box's bottom, put in the plants, and you're all set.

Outdoors:

Sand the box's outside if you want (you can also paint or stain it). Next, drill four or five holes about 1/2 inch (1.25 centimeters) in diameter into the bottom of the box. Lay a piece of landscape cloth or plastic window screening across the bottom of the box, so it fits snugly. This will prevent soil from running out. Finally, get ready to hang the box.

Hang the window box (optional)

First, find the wall studs that frame the window (you'll be screwing hooks into them). On the standard single window, the easiest way to find them is to mark the center of your windowsill and measure 16 inches (40.5 centimeters) either way. Mark these points on the sill, then measure down below the windowsill 1 inch (2.5 centimeters) and mark these same points. This is where your screw hooks will be.

Next, pre-drill the holes for the screw hooks. Drill at a slight angle upward (the same angle as the windowsill), then screw in the hooks until only the hooked end is visible.

To attach the eyescrews to your window box, turn the box on its side so the front faces downward. On either end of the back side of the box, mark a point 1 inch (2.5 centimeters) from the top edge and 3/8 of an inch (1 centimeter) from the side edge. The distance between these two points will be 32 inches (81 centimeters) if you have a standard window. Pre-drill both points so the pilot hole goes through the back piece and into each side piece. Angle the drill slightly downward toward the opposite corner of the side piece. Finally, screw in the eyescrews and hang the box on the two hooks.

The box should hang right below the windowsill, for easy indoor access (plus, it's removable if the weather gets too cold). If the box tips forward too much, nail or screw in some spacers (two small wood scraps should do it) on the bottom of the back side to push against the outer wall, making it hang straight.

Fill it with your soil (use high-quality packaged soil for the best results), seeds, transplants, or potted plants, and watch your little, readily accessible, potentially mobile garden grow.

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