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2torial #0577:
Learn2 Buy a
Stereo System
"LIVE! from your living room..."
Stereo equipment has changed quite a bit over
the last ten years. It's gotten better, but it's
also gotten more complicated. Home entertainment
systems that allow you to watch movies on big
screens, with sound that blows you out of your
seat, are common but not what you're interested in.
All you want, is to be able to listen to
high-quality music with a minimum of fuss and
bother. That's what we'll be speaking of here.
Stereo equipment is one of the areas where you
get what you pay for. More expensive equipment is
of better quality, and will produce superior sound,
but there are other factors to consider as well.
Someone who listens to music in the background,
while moving from one room to the next, does not
need the same quality of equipment as a person who
sits in one location for hours, entranced with
their favorite group. Similarly, one person may
like to hear their music at louder volumes, for
long periods of time, while another may never
listen to their music at anything but a relatively
quiet level. Think about how important the music is
for you, and adjust your budget accordingly.
When purchasing a less expensive, or midrange
system, large discounters generally charge less
than small specialty stores. However, if you want
an especially knowledgeable salesperson, or would
like to be able to come back and discuss any
difficulties after purchase, you may prefer a more
specialized store. When buying a high-end system,
many prefer the service and selection of a local
specialist.
 Go
to several stores
There are many brands and models out there, and
no one store carries everything. Visiting several
stores gives you more variety to choose from, a
better idea of pricing, and more chances to find a
knowledgeable, service-oriented retailer
 Take the time to listen
Even if your new system is going into the garage
so you'll have company while using your band saw,
listen before buying. You may not know it yet, but
you could be very sensitive to certain sounds. Some
people are easily irritated by sound that's too
"bright" (stronger in the high frequencies). Or
over-vibrate with too much bass. In any case,
listening helps you buy what you really like, even
if you don't know why.
 Ask questions
After you read this 2torial, you'll probably
know more than you did before. But don't stop here!
You'll no doubt have questions beyond what's
covered below; ask someone in the know. At the
least, the process will flush out the better
salespeople.
 Check into warranties and return
options
Every industry has its share of lemons. If you
end up with one (or more), don't fret...unless you
bought your equipment without any kind of consumer
protection at all. Check out policies first, then
hand over your money. You won't be sorry for the
extra few minutes spent.
 Examine different scenarios
To be forewarned is to be forearmed. Go to it.
- Situation 1: A Lower Cost Example
This system will sound very good at low to medium volumes.
It's also a good choice for small rooms, or as a first "real"
stereo. You won't feel much bass though, and you'll tire of
listening to it pretty soon at higher volumes.
- Buy an entry-level receiver from one of the major brands,
such as JVC, Kenwood, Pioneer, Sony, or Technics. Power ratings
will be anywhere from 40 to 70 Watts per channel, and it may
or may not come with "surround sound" or a remote control.
Price will be less than $200, hopefully more like $150.
- Pick up a pair of small, "two-way" speakers from a well-known
manufacturer such as Bose, Boston Acoustics, JBL or Polk (there
are quite a few more good names, these are just widely available).
Don't spend less than $150 for the pair, but don't spend more
than $300 either.
- Purchase a single-play CD player from one of the major brands
that also make receivers. It may or may not come with remote
control, but it'll sound fine, and it won't cost more than
$150 (probably less). If you'd like to add a tape deck, you'll
find decent dual-cassette models for $150 to $200 dollars.
- Situation 2: A Better System
If you like to listen to music at higher volumes, or plan on
setting up an optimum listening environment, look here. The
extra money you spend will pay off in better bass, imaging and
tireless listening at higher volumes.
- Buy a better receiver from a manufacturer such as Carver,
Denon, Harmon-Kardon, NAD, SonyES or Yamaha. Power ratings
will be anywhere from 50 to 100 Watts per channel, will probably
come with a remote and might incorporate "surround sound".
Price will vary widely, from about $300 to as much as $600
for one that has lots of bells and whistles.
- Pick up either a pair of medium sized speakers, or a good
three piece subwoofer/satellite system. In addition to better
models from the names mentioned in the lower-priced section,
you'll have access to brands such as Celestion, Klipsch, MORE
TK. Don't spend less than $400 for the pair, but try to keep
it under $1000.
- Purchase a single-play, or multi-play CD player. The same
people who make better receivers also make good CD players.
It will probably come with a remote and cost anywhere from
$250 to $350. Single cassette tape decks are generally better
than dual cassettes, but good dual ones are available also.
Cost will be $200 on up. If you have records in good shape,
look at garage sales for quality heavy, older turntables,
and put a new cartridge in the tonearm. Otherwise you'll have
to pay upwards of $200 for one of the few good ones still
being made by brands such as Dual or Thorens.
- Situation 3: A High-End System
If you're looking to really spend on a music-only system, you
probably know exactly what you want. Just in case you don't,
here are some guidelines to getting wonderful, glorious sound.
Brand names won't be mentioned, as there are many excellent
small manufacturers not widely available. It's essential to
listen extensively before you buy this equipment.
- Buy a separate amplifier, pre-amplifier and tuner from a
high-end stereo store. Look for 100+ watts per channel (how
many watts you need depends on the specs of your speakers
and your room size), large heat sinks and heavily built chassis.
You also want a total harmonic distortion (THD) rate that
is extremely low, say .02 percent to .04 percent (max). In
the best scenario, you'll be getting individual amplifiers
that are physically and electrically separate from one another.
The pre-amp will utilize a compact internal design to keep
the signal path short, while the tuner will capture and hold
fringe stations very well. Expect to pay upwards of $700 total.
Sometimes way upwards.
- Pick up a pair of larger speakers and perhaps an active
subwoofer. High design and exotic materials are the rule here;
you'll have to decide which you like most. You're looking
for extended bass response, the ability to easily locate individual
instruments and voices within the sound field, and, most importantly,
the impression that you're listening to a live performance,
than to a set of boxes in your living room. Expect to pay
more than $1000 total, possibly much more.
CD players at this level may have external D/A
converters, upgradable software, or utilize exotic
chassis materials. The price will be at least $400.
Traditional tape decks should be single cassette, 3
head and incorporate Dolby "S". DAT decks are more
the norm at this level, and will cost over $300. If
you buy a turntable, the best chassis and tonearms
are purchased separately. Let the salesperson
recommend a cartridge.
 Detect some obvious clues to better
equipment
- Receivers are tough to judge by looks alone. In general, they
should feel heavier than you'd expect. They should have separate
bass and treble controls, or an equalizer with at least 5 bands.
When you look down through the vents on top, try to see if the
heat sink (it looks like 'cooling fins') is of good, heavy gauge
metal. If you can get a hold of a specifications sheet, see if
it lists "continuous power into both "8 ohms" and "4 ohms". If
it does, the figure for 4 ohms should be at least 25% greater
than the figure for 8 ohms.
- Speakers should not be made by anyone who also makes receivers.
They should be heavy, rather than light, and should sound solid,
rather than empty when you rap them lightly with your knuckles.
Look for rubber, rather than foam surrounding the speaker "woofers"
and small domes, rather than cones, for the "tweeter". When you
listen to them, make sure that the equipment they're hooked up
to has the tone controls set to the neutral position. When listening,
instruments and vocals should not "wander' around the sound field,
but should be easily located. The sound should be natural, closer
to a live performance than to a set of boxes in front of you.
Finally, you should like the way they sound, don't take the salesperson's
opinions at face value.
- Better CD players are solidly built. They don't make odd, strained
noises when changing disks. When listening to them, see how well
they avoid sounding overly "bright". You won't notice huge differences
until you compare a very expensive unit with a less expensive
one.
- Tape decks should have "soft touch" controls, rather than mechanical
keys. "Dolby C" and "HXPro" are desirable features, as well as
electronic counters, rather than rotating numerals. If you can
get hold of a specifications sheet, check for a frequency response
of as close to 20hz through 20khz +/- 3db as possible. Higher
signal-to-noise ratios are better, and lower "wow" and "flutter"
figures are desirable.
- Turntables should have heavy platters. Arm style (straight vs.
curved), cartridge type (ceramic vs. magnetic), and drive type
(direct vs. belt) each have their pros and cons. The best thing
to do is opt for a higher-priced new model (just think of all
the money you'll save buying records for 25 cents instead of CDs
for 25 dollars!) or a quality used one. If you can land a turntable
by Thorens, Linn, Oracle, or Rega (to name a few) at a garage
sale, you'll be spinning your favorite tunes in style for sure.
-end-
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