Intro:
Before you begin
Step 1:
Choose your cage
Step 2:
Choose your equipment
Step 3:
Choose the animal
Step 4:
Set up the cage
Step 5:
Tend the animal

2torial #0576:
Learn2 Set Up a Hamster or Gerbil Cage

Rodents rule

When it comes to small, furry, cute animals, hamsters and gerbils just might have a corner on the market. Those big ears, those little pink noses, how they snuggle into the palm of your hand--who can resist? If you're interested in keeping these miniature mammals in your home, follow these steps to creating a home of their own.

It's important to understand the balance of care needed to keep these animals. Remember that although caged, they're not just for display--don't make the mistake of thinking that with enough water and food they can be left to their own devices. Like any other tame animal, they like a little variety in their lives, particularly human contact.

On the other hand, try to respect their space. If you're constantly reaching in the cage to pick one up, they probably won't be very happy with the arrangement. Also, these are not short-term pets--they can live up to five years. Make sure you'll be able to care for them for their life span.

Choose your cage

Hamsters and gerbils basically share the same habitat needs, so you can buy the cage and equipment first, then choose which type of animal you want. Start with the cage, which comes in two types--wire or aquarium. Wire cages are the cheaper choice, but they have their drawbacks. The animals can kick their bedding material out of the cage, and if they're small enough, they can get caught between the wires or even escape. If you want to use a plastic tank or glass aquarium, find one that's at least ten gallons (38 liters), which is about one by two feet (30 by 60 centimeters). With anything smaller, the animals won't have enough room for their various needs. Note: If you use a plastic tank (or anything plastic, for that matter), be aware of the possibility that the animal might be able to chew through it. A glass aquaruium is probably the safest bet.

If you do buy a tank, make sure it has a secure, well-ventilated top. Some tanks are designed specifically for hamsters and gerbils, with tops and room for attachments, but if you buy a normal aquarium, you may have to build a wire top. The simplest way to do this is to find a piece of close-knit wire screen that's slightly larger than the top of the tank. Lay the piece across the top, bend the wire edges over the sides, then remove the piece and cover both sides of the bent wire edges with a thick, durable tape (like duct tape). Make sure no adhesive remains exposed and that it fits snugly--these little beasts are expert escape artists. You may want to keep a weight on the wire top just to be safe.

Choose your equipment

Again, the equipment can work for either animal. Here are the necessities:

Bedding. Gerbils and hamsters are burrowers, so they need about two inches (five centimeters) of bedding that they can arrange and dig into. Although the most common bedding is pine shavings, think twice before buying this type. Pine, as well as cedar bedding, are known to cause allergic reactions and respiratory problems, which can be particularly dangerous if the animal is still a pup. Also, avoid "fluffy" bedding, like cotton or wool. The animals will chew on anything, and if they swallow this type of material, it can be fatal. Aspen, corncob, or any hypoallergenic bedding are your safest bets. All should be available packaged in pet stores, or online.

A hanging water bottle. Although a regular water dish will do, a hanging (or gravity flow) bottle is much safer. Since the animals like to kick their bedding everywhere, the water in a dish could be dirtied or soaked up by the shavings.

A food bowl. A sturdy, ceramic bowl is best. If you use plastic, be sure it's not easily tipped over.

An exercise wheel. Hamsters and gerbils are either sleeping or very, very awake. With all their energy, they need toys to keep busy (and fit!). An exercise wheel is the best way to help them blow off steam. Wheels come in wire or solid plastic. Both have pros and cons. Wire is usually cheaper, but if the animals are small enough they may get caught between the rungs. Plastic, on the other hand, can be chewed apart.

Wood. Hamsters and gerbils have teeth that grow constantly. To prevent their teeth from being overgrown, always have a small block of untreated wood (without chemical preservatives) that they can gnaw on. A short, thick piece (about two by four inches, or five by ten centimeters) should do fine.

Food. You can buy a commercial mix in pet stores, but supplement this with fresh foods. Gerbils and hamsters like carrots, broccoli, dandelion, clover, and beets.

Optional: More toys! Feel free to add more climbing equipment, but if you want to buy those plastic tubes and connecting rooms, be warned that larger hamsters can get stuck in them, and don't forget the chew-factor (also, those additions are difficult to clean). A plastic exercise ball is fun for some out-of-the-cage excursions (and is particularly helpful when you clean the cage). Note: Don't clutter up the cage too much. The animals need space for nesting, feeding, and relieving themselves.

Choose the animal

Gerbil or hamster? They may look similar at the pet store, but before you make your choice, be aware of a few key differences:

• Gerbils are more mouse-like, with long tails, while hamsters are slightly larger and furrier, with short, stubby tails (you can't have a gerbil and a hamster in the same cage--they'll fight). There are also different breeds within each group, some with different needs and habits.

• Temperamentally, gerbils are more energetic and social than hamsters. They enjoy other gerbils' company, and they switch off between napping and playing all day and night (an exception to this is when two adult females are put together; they'll tend to fight). Hamsters, on the other hand, are nocturnal, sleeping most of the day. They're also much more solitary. They have a higher tendency to bite when alarmed, and two hamsters in one cage could result in a fight (particularly if they're Syrian hamsters). These fights can often be fatal, so if a hamster is what you want, and you want more than one, make sure you're buying a compatible breed.

• Hamsters are a bit more fastidious in their homemaking habits. They'll usually urinate in one or two corners of the cage, while gerbils will go wherever they please.

• Hamsters are more sensitive to temperature changes. If things get too cool (below 45F or 6.5C), they'll hibernate.

• Gerbils tend to live four to five years, hamsters two to three.

• Finally, be aware of the breeding possibilities. Gerbils and hamsters are usually sold in litters (which can be as large as 18 babies!), and if a couple from the same litter breed, they'll produce weak or defective offspring. Many times the parents will sense this weakness and kill or eat the babies. This being the case, avoid buying animals of different sexes (the pet store owner will usually be able to determine this).

Set up the cage

Setting up the cage is as easy as one, two, three, four and five:

1. Wash the cage and equipment with soap and water before setting it up. Rinse thoroughly, since soap residue can harm the animals. Note: Don't use any soaps or glass cleaners with ammonia.

2. Find the right spot for the cage. Any table or stand will do, but it shouldn't be in direct sunlight, which can overheat the animals. Also, separate it from loud noises, like a stereo.

3. Add about two inches (five centimeters) of bedding to the bottom of the cage.

4. Attach the filled water bottle in one corner and put the food dish beside it. Add the exercise wheel (make sure it's stable) and any other toys. Make sure there's enough space in one area of the cage for the animal to burrow and nest.

5. Put in your animal(s). Pet stores will usually give you a small box for transport. Put the box in the cage and let them come out on their own. They'll be a little skittish, so let them grow used to their new home for at least 12 hours before handling them. Don't forget to put the top on the cage securely.

Tend the animal

Hamsters and gerbils completely depend on you to take care of all aspects of their lives, so it's important to know what they need:

Feeding. For the first few weeks, give them the packaged food (follow package instructions), and add a supplement of fresh foods (cut up carrots, beets, and radishes into chunks) two to three times a week. Once they get used to this diet, scale back on the packaged food so the meals are half packaged, half fresh. Remove any uneaten fresh food pieces before they rot. Change the water daily.

Cleaning. For hamsters, scoop out the corner (or corners) of bedding they chose for their bathroom area daily (a kitty litter scoop works well). Change the bedding completely every ten days or so. Gerbils, although more indiscriminate, go to the bathroom less than hamsters, so change the bedding every two weeks or so, depending on how many animals you have. If you provided a bathroom area for your gerbils, and they're using it, then clean the area daily.

Taming and handling. It'll take a little while for both animals to get used to being handled (you'll probably receive a few bites at first), but the more you do it on a regular basis, the more trusting and comfortable they'll be. For a gerbil, tap the cage if it's asleep, then put your hand inside to let it familiarize itself with your scent. Repeat this a few times until the animal feels secure enough to climb onto your hand. When it does, you can pick it up out of the cage. Note: gerbils are great jumpers, and they can sometimes become startled when picked up abruptly, so always handle the animal in an enclosed area, and be sure it trusts you before carrying it high above the ground. When you're done, place the animal back onto the bedding (never drop the gerbil or it won't trust your handling).

Because of their temperament, hamsters take a little more patience to tame. The best time to handle them is in the evening, after they've woken up from a day's sleep. (Never pick up a sleeping hamster--it will bite.) If the hamster is still asleep in the evening, tap the cage to wake it up. It will come out of its nest and see who's there. Put your hand in the cage and see if it will be petted. If it rolls on it's back and squeaks, it wants to be left alone. If not, pet if for a few minutes and give it a treat. After a few sessions, it should be comfortable enough to let you pick it up, which you can do by cupping it in your hand. Hamsters are slower than gerbils, so feel free to let it roam around in your lap, or in an enclosed area.

Once you become familiar with either animals' temperaments (and they become familiar with yours) you'll notice more unique aspects of their personalities and habits, and you'll have made your first friends in the rodent world.

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