2torial #0574: Learn2 Make a Roux Do you roux? Good gravy! Good glue! Did you miss Basic Gravy 101? For starters, a roux (pronounced "roo") is always a means to an end. It isn't a sauce, it's a thickener--the base of a sauce, gravy or stew. It's made by cooking equal amounts of flour and a fat (your choice of butter, vegetable oil, or meat fats). And it's not only the base of sauces, it can also serve as the binding ingredient, the "glue" of many recipes. So take this introduction to the use of roux as the tip of the iceberg. The three types of roux--white, blond, and brown-- are determined by the length of cooking time and resulting color. White and blond roux are the source of creamy milk or light stock-based sauces, with butter used as the fat. Brown roux form the base for rich meaty sauces and gravies, and can be made with butter or meat fats. A well-made roux balances two goals: to cook the roux long enough to eliminate the taste of raw flour, yet slowly enough so the starch can swell, enabling it to absorb, thus thicken, whatever liquid is added later. Used in many cuisines, the roux provides the base for several classic French sauces, such as Bechamel, Veloute, Mornay, and Espagnole. You create the varieties depending on what other ingredients that you add to the roux. It also thickens stew-like dishes, such as Creole Gumbo. Lastly, it serves as the binding agent for dishes like souffles and croquettes. Once you know what dish the roux will adorn, you can assemble the fat and the flour in correct proportion to the added liquid. (In this 2torial, fat is a general term referring to your choice of butter, vegetable oil, or animal fat.) Use the smaller amount of fat and flour for sauce with the consistency of heavy cream; if you prefer a thicker sauce, use the larger amount. Note that the fat and flour are used in equal proportion, regardless of the amount used. Be sure to have all your ingredients and utensils by the stove. Once you add the flour to the fat, you need to stir constantly or you'll risk burning the flour. And that means starting all over again Heat the saucepan Low, even heat is essential for a successful roux. If you have a gas stove, turn the flame down until it's as low as possible but still remaining steady, i.e., no flickering. If you have an electric burner, put it on the lowest number, or on the Low setting. When you add the fat (Step 3) the pan should warm the fat (or melt the butter) without burning it. Keeping a watchful eye on the stove will prevent this culinary mishap. Note: If you see the oil begin to smoke, throw it away and start again. Oil that overheats contains many toxic chemicals. It'll taste bad, too. Use a heat diffuser to maintain a lower temperature, if necessary. Measure the ingredients The amount of fat and flour used in a roux is determined by the desired quantity and thickness of the resulting sauce (see Before you begin). For ease, you can measure the fat and flour and add them (in order!) directly into the saucepan. Add the fat You can still adjust the heat at this point if you need to. Keep a sharp eye (and ear) out for an overheated pan! The fat should begin to melt immediately. But if it sizzles wildly, lower the heat under the saucepan. Or use a heat diffuser if you haven't already done so. Swirl the pan (lift it off the burner and move it in a circular motion, dipping each side of the pan up and down slightly. This will distribute the melted fat evenly around the bottom of the pan. If you enjoy cooking with roux often, you can store it in the freezer for up to three months. While fresh and still soft, place tablespoon-sized portions (30 grams) on a cookie sheet or plate that you've covered with wax paper. Once they're frozen, you can pull them off the wax paper and store them in a heavy, sealed plastic bag or container. To use, drop the frozen portions into hot (but not boiling) liquid, then stir and simmer until thickened. Stir technique: Whatever utensil is available, it can be used well or badly. For the best stirring action with a minimum of splashing, hold the whisk or spoon at an angle--with the handle close to the edge of the pan. This allows more surface area of the utensil to contact the bottom of the pan, so that none of your roux sticks or burns. Add the flour From this point on, the saucepan requires your constant attention. No wandering off to refresh your drink! Sprinkle the flour over the bottom of the saucepan. Immediately stir the mixture briskly with a wire whisk (or whatever you've got); in a minute or two, the flour should begin to puff and swell slightly. Cook to achieve the desired color This step determines the character of your roux. In any case, the mixture should not smell of raw flour. (Take a whiff of a bag of flour if you aren't sure what raw flour smells like.) Keep the mixture moving so it doesn't burn.   White roux: barely beige; complete in no less than five minutes. Blond roux: golden; usually complete in 10 minutes. Brown roux: deep nut-brown; this roux is often cooked from 45 minutes to 1 hour and smells nutty and baked when it's done. Most chefs use clarified butter (see Keywords) when preparing a brown roux.

Bring it to life (a suggested usage)

Well, it's roux! But as already noted, roux is only a means to an end, so why stop now? You've got to follow through--if only to turn it into a simple, yet expertly made sauce. Here's something quick and delicate design to suit most palates:

• Prepare a white roux as above and allow it to cool for a few minutes.
• Add 2 cups (1/2 liter) of chicken stock, stirring vigorously. When the mixture is smooth (free of lumps), raise the heat under the saucepan to medium-high and bring the mixture to a boil--but keep stirring!
• Then lower the heat to a simmer, continuing to stir until the mixture is thick enough for your liking. Once you add the stock, don't cook the sauce much longer. The water of the stock will evaporate--and will concentrate the salt content of the stock, making the sauce too salty.

Taste your roux to discover if it needs seasoning--add salt and pepper, if needed, and perhaps a pinch of parsley or thyme. For a professional touch and a velvety texture, strain the sauce through a fine sieve. Et voila! Your sauce is ready to serve.

Explore the alternatives

Vegan roux: This version contains no animal products. For the fat component of your roux, use olive oil or any other oil you prefer (unrefined oil is best), but please take note: add two parts flour to one part oil, and prepare as outlined in Steps 2-4. Some folks recommend using this recipe for white roux in particular. However, if you add a tablespoon or two (30-60 grams) of dark red miso (see Keywords) to a blonde roux, you get a a fantastic sauce with a red wine flavor. Or add lighter grades of miso to a lighter roux for something more delicate. Some folks like to add a tablespoon of tamari (see Keywords).

Fancier roux-based sauces:

• Bechamel: a basic French white sauce made with a butter-based roux and milk.
• Espagnole: a basic brown sauce traditionally made with a deep brown roux, sauteed vegetables and a rich meat stock flavored with herbs and sometimes, tomato paste
• Mornay: a creamy, Bechamel-based cheese sauce. Stocks are often added for flavor, eggs for richness.
• Veloute: a stock-based white sauce, sometimes bound with eggs.

Roux as glue: using roux as a binding agent.

Remember, a roux isn't just the base of sauces, it's the binding agent of many recipes.

• Croquettes: patties made of vegetables or minced meat (or both) bound with a thick, white roux. Then they're rolled in crumbs and fried until crisp.

Creole Gumbo: a thick, stew-like dish that's a New Orleans specialty. There are as many recipes for gumbo as there are cooks who make it, but most associate gumbo with okra, tomatoes, onions and an array of meat or shellfish, or both. All good gumbos start with a rich brown roux.

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