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2torial #0537:
Learn2 Tie
a Necktie
Fastest necktie in the west!
Ascot and bertha, cravat and Four-in-hand,
rebato and Double Windsor-- there's a world of
variation in fashionable neckwear. Some of them are
badges of office, some have gone the way of the
dodo bird and the woolly rhino. This 2torial will
walk you through the basics of tying two standard
business tie knots. Your associates will rave, your
family will cheer, and best of all you'll feel
great knowing your necktie is straight and in
place. Leave the clip-ons at home!
Choose a tie that fits your personality and
matches what you are wearing. Despite how logical
it sounds, striped ties do not go with striped
shirts or jackets. Choose a solid or patterned tie
with striped shirts. If you decide to wear that
loud tie your kids gave you for Christmas, then put
on a plain white or solid-color dress shirt first.
Which knot for my business tie? Use the Double
Windsor for thin materials such as silk, and with
wider ties. Hand-knit or woolen ties are too thick
for the Double Windsor; use a Four-in-hand when you
need a smaller knot.
Flip the collar up
Button your collar at the neck. Then fold it up
so that you can slip the tie easily around your
neck. This helps you tie it in the right spot the
first time, and also helps prevent wrinkling and
stretching the tie fabric.
Adjust the length
The standard neck-tie: Some people prefer the
ends to be exactly the same length after you've
finished. Unfortunately, ties usually come in one
size only, so it's hard to say where the ends will
meet up. A tie that only hangs to the belly-button
looks cheap; one that hangs over your pants fly is
also tacky. Even worse--when the broad end of the
tie is outdistanced by the narrow end. Instead, the
tip of the broad end should extend just to the top
of your belt buckle.
- Sounds tricky? Fortunately, there's a
good general rule to follow. To begin, drape the
necktie around your collar so that the seam of
the tie is lying along the collar. The broad end
should be on the side of your dominant hand--if
you are left-handed, the broad end should be on
your left side. Now for the measuring
trick: place the tip of the narrow end just
above the fourth button down your shirt (the one
above your navel), and eliminate the slack by
pulling down on the broad end. Again, the tie
seam should remain hidden in the back.
- Another measuring trick is to let the
broad end hang down twice as long as the narrow
end. To check if you've done this right,
fold the broad end in half up towards your neck.
The folded portion should be equal in length to
the narrow end.
Tie the Four-in-hand knot
This is the basic knot fashion. Master this one
and you'll be prepared for most semi-formal events.
- Grasp the narrow end about three inches
(8 cm) down from your neck with your nondominant
hand. This is the spot where you will make
the knot. Take the broad end with your dominant
hand and pass it across and over the spot, and
hold it there with your nondominant hand.
- Bring the broad end around behind the
spot, then around and over again. Then pull
the broad end behind the spot and up through the
"V" at the top.
- Let the broad end flop over and hang
down. Now tuck it between the top wrap of
the tie and the place you have been holding. Use
both hands to straighten the knot and pull it
tight.
- Pull the knot gently but firmly. Look
at the tie in the mirror. Is it straight? Does
the broad end hang down too far, or not far
enough? Loosen the tie if need be, and readjust
the length of the narrow end as needed so that
your tie will be the proper length after the
knot has been tightened. The Four-in-hand knot
will be slightly larger on one side than the
other. The knot should be smoothly wrapped, not
wrinkled or folded over on itself. If you need
to, take a moment to fuss with the knot so that
it looks even and the rest of the tie hangs down
straight.
Oh, and turn your collar down. Button down the
collarbone buttons.
Tie the Double Windsor Knot
The Double Windsor takes its name from the
double wrap that is part of its construction.
Political and business leaders seem to favor this
knot, along with foreign royalty. You tie it
similarly to the Four-in-hand--just duplicate the
single wrap of the Four-in-hand. It's a little more
difficult to pull together in the tightening stage.
So go slowly and be prepared to loosen the knot and
re-tighten as necessary. Finally, the Windsor is a
bigger knot; allow yourself a little more length on
the broad end.
- Grasp the narrow end about two inches
(6cm) down from your neck with your nondominant
hand. This is the spot where you will make
the knot. Take the broad end with your dominant
hand and pass it across and over the spot, and
hold it there with your nondominant hand.
- Now, pass the broad end around behind
once, then out in front, then down through the
top of the "Y" and back out to the same side
again.
- Wrap again the broad end across,
behind and up through the back of the "Y." Let
the broad end hang down, and then tuck it
between the last wrap and the spot you have been
holding.
- Pull the knot together gently. This
is a crucial step with the Double Windsor. There
are two actions here--tightening the
funnel-shape knot, and then sliding that knot up
to your collar.
- While the knot is still loose, remove
your nondominant hand from the innards of the
knot. Use it to grasp the bottom of the broad
end. Then, while pulling on the broad end, use
your dominant hand to squeeze and jostle the
funnel-shaped knot into the right form. Make
sure the first, smaller wrap of the knot doesn't
slip down the narrow end. Instead, coax it into
the larger outer wrap. Now slide the almost
finished knot up towards your collar. At this
point you can tighten the knot more firmly by
pulling on the narrow end. Ideally there's a
dimple created just below the pointed end of the
funnel-shaped knot.
- Look at the tie in the mirror. Is it
straight? Does the broad end hang down too far,
or not far enough? Loosen the tie if need be,
and readjust the length of the narrow end as
needed so that your tie will be the proper
length when the knot has been tightened. The
knot should be smoothly wrapped, not wrinkled or
folded over on itself. If you need to, take a
moment to fuss with the knot so it looks even,
and so the rest of the tie hangs down straight.
-end-

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