Consider the fabric thickness when forming a
shank. Heavier fabrics need a longer shank, and you
can vary how tight you pull your stitches to form
the right length. Make the shank just a tad longer
than the fabric thickness, and the fabric will lie
flat when buttoned.
Sometimes you'll have a button that's been
formed with a "U-shaped" metal shank already. In
these cases stitch the bottom of the "U" to the
fabric, and position it so that the shank slides
easily into the buttonhole without spreading it.
For light and medium weight fabrics, general
purpose thread is fine. For heavyweight fabrics,
such as coats, try to use heavy duty thread for
extra strength.
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