The Steps


Intro:
Before you begin
Step 1:
Survey the layout
Step 2:
Install the right wire
Step 3:
Find the spot
Step 4:
Mark the spot
Step 5:
Install hooks, nails, or screws
Step 6:
Hang the picture

 



The Necessities


A framed picture

Some picture-hanging wire and screw-eyes (if not already attached)

A hammer

Small felt pads (if not already attached to frame)

A pencil

Some framing hooks and nails (purchased together), or 1 to 1 1/2 inch nails and some tape (for light- to medium-weight pictures)

Some wall screws with anchor-bolts (for heavy pictures)

A 1/4 inch drill and a screwdriver for mounting wall screws

Optional:

A measuring tape

A person to help (very useful)



Time


15 - 30 minutes per picture

1 hour or more if mounting wall anchors (see Tips)

 



Keywords


Anchor-bolt: the behind-the-wall component of a hanging mechanism for heavy pictures

Drywall: an internal building material with a thin cardboard exterior and compressed gypsum (looks like chalk) interior.

Screw-eye: a screw with a normal body and with a circular loop of metal instead of a regular or Philips head.

Spackle: a thick white paste used for patching holes in drywall.

 



Helpful Tips


Any piece of wall art should be considered an accent to a room rather than an after-thought, and certainly not a distraction. If you have too much up already, choose the ones that you like best and use them now--you can always swap out later when your tastes change. It is not unusual for collectors to rotate their wall art either seasonally or according to tastes. Do take a moment and notice whether the group you've selected look well together. Think of the overall impression that the wall will make.

Many older buildings have built-in molding (also known as a picture rail) placed about eight feet up from the floor. With the help of molding hooks (available at most arts and crafts stores), which hook into a groove on the top of the molding, you can hang pictures without having to use nails.

Some people use a pencil to mark picture placement. This is inadvisable unless you can be absolutely sure that the pencil marks will be covered up by the frame. Those who must, should first hold the picture up to the proper height, then mark lightly along the top edge of each frame. Then center the picture side-to-side, and lightly mark the top corner of each side. The picture may then be set aside without the need to re-measure.

Eye tricks: When centering a picture, be aware of the effect the entire wall has on your eye. When a picture is centered and balanced, your eye will relax. This may feel like sudden clarity, or the entire wall may seem to hum and get fuzzy. Practice moving the picture around and notice the difference between "definitely not" to "maybe," "maybe," and then "oh yes-- perfect!" Again, having a second person hold the picture up while you step back to look can be a real advantage.

After inserting an anchor-bolt, you may want to patch over the hole. Allow the patch to dry thoroughly before hanging the picture.

In cases where the placement is way off, you may have to re-nail the hook. Hopefully the old hole will be hidden by the picture, but one should always keep a jar of spackle (finishing plaster) and matching wall paint handy in order to cover your tracks. Spackling should only take an hour or so, just long enough for the paint to dry.

 

Home and Garden


2torial #0460:
Learn2 Hang a Picture

Find the artful dangle angle...

Oops! Your recently purchased "Untitled" masterpiece has just been re-titled "Assorted Glass and Paper Fragments." Hanging a framed work requires the proper materials for support and stability. It takes a little pre-planning, but the results will be evident: a carefully hung picture shows off its merits and enhances the rest of the room. If you'd like to avoid the scenario above, just follow along with this 2torial and you'll be on your way to a tastefully decorated space.

Before You Begin

Before you determine the right spot to hang your picture, you need to make some decisions about the design of the room. Look at the art work already hanging, and decide: is there room for one more? Or does one or more pictures need to come down and get "swapped out?" Perhaps the other pictures are worth being re-hung in order to make way for the new beauty.

While you think on these things, collect all necessary materials and put them close by where you're working.

Step 1Survey the layout

Look at the other objects in the room. Everything there, the lamp, the couch, the ficus plant in the corner, has its own space, sometimes called a need to breathe. Our eyes have a natural tendency to put space in order. When the size, color, or proximity of furnishings throw a room out of balance, our eyes work harder trying to put the whole scene back in order. They can't help it, so do them a favor and look at the plan now, before you start driving in nails.

Hold your picture up (or have a friend hold it for you) and experiment with moving it closer to, and then further away from, the other furnishings. Try to notice when the furnishings start to feel crowded--that means you need more space.

Step 2Install the right wire

Even if you had your picture framed professionally, take a look at the back. Picture-hanging wire comes in different gauges according to weight.

Is the wire strong enough to support the weight of the frame? Make sure the wire is securely anchored to the frame. Screw eyes driven into a wooden frame, or sliders made for metal frames, should be located at least 2/3 up from the bottom of the frame. The wire should curve up half-way from the screw eyes to the top of the frame. It should not be visible above the top of the frame.

  • Wiring it yourself: Cut wire 1 - 1/2 times the width of the frame. (If you are uncertain of the wire's strength, use twice as much and double it through.)
  • Fold the wire in half to find its center. Feed it through both screw-eyes.
  • Adjust the wire so the center of it remains at the center of the picture, and pull the remainder through the screw-eyes evenly on both sides.
  • Wrap the wire around the screw-eye twice, then pull the remaining wire back along itself and twist it around. This helps secure the wire to the screw eye as well as get the remainder out of the way. Do the same on the other side.

Stick a small felt pad on each bottom corner of the picture. This helps protect your wall and the frame, and also stabilizes the picture.

Step 3Find the spot

Given your placement decisions, hold it up by the sides of the frame in the area where you want it to hang. A friend could be especially useful now, to hold the picture while you stand back and see exactly where you want it to go. Different people use different schemes for hanging wall art. Some like to have the top edge of each piece exactly level with every other piece, others like to have the center of each piece exactly even with the level of their eyes when they are standing. The method described below is commonly used in art gallery exhibitions. Remember the eye wants order and this is the time to establish it.

  • Hold up the art work so that the geometric center of the image is five feet and two inches high. This allows for most people to look directly into the picture. Tall folks will be looking down into the picture, but experience has shown this is far easier than having short people look up. (Life is full of compromises.)
  • Measure the distance on either side of the frame toward the edge of the adjoining art work or piece of furniture. The spaces should be even on each side. You may use a measuring tape if desired--a hammer's handle or the span of your hand work well too. (Remember to respect an object's space. Leave extra room between your picture and the large plant in the corner, the lighting fixture, or that big, dark, heavy bookcase.)

Start with the picture in the center of the available space. Slowly move it away from the object. Your eye will feel the moment when the room starts to balance, and will relax. When you feel your eye relax, stop. That's the spot to hang your picture.

Step 4Mark the spot

Tuck a pencil behind your ear (this will become useful in a minute).

  • Now hold the picture with one hand on the wire and the other on the bottom of the frame. For the hand holding the wire, hook your middle finger on the center of the wire so that the picture hangs straight. This is where the nail or hook will hold the picture. Hold up the picture to the wall again, and make sure it is both centered and straight. The weight of the picture will leave a mark or small indentation on your finger where the wire was. Keep your hand firmly on that point, and remove the picture. Take the pencil and draw a small mark on the wall exactly where your finger held the wire. Good! Now you are ready to approach the wall.

An excellent tool for finding the spot for the nail can be made from a 10-inch length of coat-hanger wire. File a point on one end and use a pliers to bend the wire 90 degrees (a right angle) at one and a half inches from the pointed end. Use the pliers to make a loop big enough for your finger at the other end. Now set the picture wire on the right angle bend with the point towards the wall, and hold up the picture with your finger in the loop and the other hand supporting the bottom of the frame. The loop should stick out from the top of the picture. When the picture is centered and straight, press gently to the wall. The pointed end will leave a mark in the wall where the nail will go. Remember: if you're using hooks, the mark shows where the bottom of the hook goes (not where the screw is screwed in).

Step 5Install hooks, nails
or screws

For light to medium weight pictures:

  • Buy some picture hooks at your local hardware or craft store. Hooks come in packages with small nails made for them. Place the hook to the wall so that the bottom of the hook is at the mark you made for the wire. Above the hook thereís a slot for the nail that should be directly above the mark. Hold the hook and nail steady with one hand and use a hammer to get the nail started. Be careful not to let the nail slip down at first. This may hang the picture lower than you want it. Once you have the nail established, drive it in.
  • If you do not have any picture hooks, then medium-gauge nails will work fine. For lightweight pictures such as framed documents use a one inch finishing nail. Put a small piece of tape over the spot where the nail will go. This helps protect the wall plaster from cracking. Drive the nail downwards in at a 45 degree angle. The angle is critical to ensuring the picture will stay on the wall.

For heavy pictures:

  • For pictures weighing 10 pounds or more, use nails instead of hooks. If the room is constructed with framed drywall, center your picture along a wall stud. Unsupported nails can be ripped out of drywall by the weight of the picture alone. To support the picture's weight evenly, use two or more nails evenly spaced from the center and level to each other.

For very heavy pictures where wall studs are inconvenient, use wall screws with anchor bolts. These hold the wall together while supporting the weight of your picture. They can be found at most hardware stores, and have instructions printed on the package. Most require you to drill a hole in the drywall just large enough to allow the anchor bolt to slip through (usually 1/4 inch). Once the anchor bolt is in place, tighten the screw clockwise to secure it snugly against the back of the wall.

Step 6Hang the picture

Your picture should now be ready for installation.

  • Pick it up carefully by the sides of the picture frame, and check to see that the wire hangs outward, looped toward the wall. Put the picture up higher than it will go, and then let it down gently until the hook or nail catches the loop of wire. Adjust the picture slightly until it comes to rest evenly on the hook. The wire should be centered as much as possible and the picture should hang straight down.
  • You may want to use a level on the top of the frame as a guide, or look at where the wall meets the ceiling and bring the top frame parallel to it. Be sure the sides hang straight up and down, too. Some ceilings may be crooked.
  • Not straight? Pictures can be adjusted up and down by tightening or loosening the wire (now aren't you glad you left extra wire?). Slides at the back of metal frames make this easy. Adjusting pictures side to side is more difficult. Use a second nail level with the first, driven into the wall at twice the distance you want to move the picture. The center of the picture hanging on both nails will be dead center between the two. If this changes the vertical alignment, you may need to adjust the slack of the wire once more.

As a last resort you may have to remove the nail and hammer it in again (no one should expect to be perfect the first time out). The good news is that the new place for the nail is exactly the same distance in the same direction that the picture needs to go. For example, if the picture needs to go 1/4 inch up and 1/2 inch to the right, then measure exactly 1/4 inch up and 1/2 inch to the right from the first nail hole, and try again.

 

-end-

 

 



2torial #0494:
Paint a Room

2torial #0527:
Remove Wallpaper

2torial #0658:
Patch a Hole

 

 

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